Still no go...

[SDSOOBI]

You all have been great in helping me address several issues. Though upon remedying each one of it seems that another pops up. Now that I have my new ignition amplifier thanks to 4x4_Welder the car seem to run a bit better, but still won't run good.

 

When turning the key on initially I get the model code 1 long 6 short via the computer light followed by a 1 long 1 short code which is ignition/crank angle sensor error. So I marked the location and removed the distributor, which is the non-vacuum crank angle type that uses the LEDs, and cleaned the wheel which had some gunk in the grooves. Though I'm thinking I may still need to replace the whole dizzy.

Here is my post on my type of dizzy.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=101274&highlight=distributor

 

Upon starting the engine the code changes and displays a 3 long 5 short and the ECS light on the dash is lit which indicates Air flow meter/EGR solenoid switch or circuit. So I cleaned up the MAF with some MAF cleaner to remove the gunk on it as well as removed the carbon and cleaned the EGR valve which appears to be functioning fine. I then replaced most of the vacuum hoses, which were shot, with new hose. Still it only runs with my foot on the gas keeping it at/above 2k. And it doesn't run smooth.

 

New parts thus far...

Plugs, wires, distributor cap & rotor, stock coil (ditched the accel superstock) and the ignition amplifier (thanks to 4x4_welder!).

 

Here is my other post regarding previous troubleshooting.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=100886

 

Here's the model info on my car...

86 GL, 2wd, 1.8L, SPFI, non-turbo.

 

Any more help/suggestions are much appreciated. You have all been awesome thus far! I just really don't want to take it into a shop when I can do most any of work myself and find the parts cheaper myself. This is my first Subaru so my troubleshooting knowledge of Subaru's isn't the greatest, but thanks to you guys it has improved immensely over the past few weeks!

[Gloyale]

Code 35 is just for the airflow meter.

 

You have the oddball old SPFI system that uses different codes than all the others.

 

But most of the parts are still the same.

 

I think you have a bad MAF, or it isn;t completely hooked up (clamps on the snorkel? all the PCV hoses hooked up?)

 

Good news is you SHOULD be able to use any SPFI MAF from 86-94 GL/Loyale

[SDSOOBI]

Thanks Gloyale! I'll give that a try.

Regarding the hoses hooked to the air intake after the MAF, there are about 3 of them. None of them seem to fit too tightly. I'll see if I can get them to fit tighter.

[Gloyale]

Thanks Gloyale! I'll give that a try.

Regarding the hoses hooked to the air intake after the MAF, there are about 3 of them. None of them seem to fit too tightly. I'll see if I can get them to fit tighter.

 

Clamps or Zipties

[coxy]

One tip for all to consider with any problems like this,all on board computers are Dumb they can send out a trouble code only by reading voltages and resistances if it is out of spec they will throw up a trouble code.

Where everyone comes unstuck including many technicians is they assume the computer is accurate,yes it is to an extent but how many people pull a component or unhook the wires to test some component that the trouble codes said is faulty and it tests Ok

Remember people it is part of a system so step one is always make sure battery voltage is OK,follow this by making sure both Positive and Negative battery connections are good then finally make sure both Body and Engine earths are good then you can trouble shoot electronics not before doing these basics.

Many times it is a poor Earth connection that triggers the fault codes not faulty components,hence why these simple points are always the first step unless you like chasing your tail.

[SDSOOBI]

Once again thank you all for the recommendations!

Finally tracked down an MAF sensor and once installed all the error codes disappeared. The car now runs great!