nckreeves Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 Hello, My name is Nick and I have a 98 subaru outback. It is in good condition with less than 60k and has been in 0 accidents. I, by no means am a mechanic but do own the Haynes Manual and can handle routine maintenance. However, my driver side rear window is becoming tempermental if that is possible. Anyone that can provide some constructive advice would be greatlly appreciated. My problem is: Driver side rear power window will roll down from both the master and individual control switches but will not roll up from either. Only after several minutes of messing with the switches do I actaully get the window to activate and roll up. The problem seems gradual. meaning the window used to roll up from the individual and not the master leaving me to believe the problem was isolated. now it has extreme difficulty rolling up from either. But when it does finally catch and activate the window shows no sign of struggle to roll up leaving me to believe the motor is fine and there is no bunching. My deduction is that it may be a relay, regulator, circuit breaker or some type of electrical problem Any suggestions snd/or advice??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 I would suggest pull the door panel off that door that has the roll up problem, and look at the contacts of the connector on the motor.....if they are dirty, or corroded, clean them up and put some di-electric grease on the connector. I am not familiar with that new of outback, but the connector sometimes is not behind the door panel, but rather at the hinge portion of the body. Some are behind the door panel though, and some are near the hinge but body side.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nckreeves Posted July 23, 2009 Author Share Posted July 23, 2009 I would suggest pull the door panel off that door that has the roll up problem, and look at the contacts of the connector on the motor.....if they are dirty, or corroded, clean them up and put some di-electric grease on the connector. I am not familiar with that new of outback, but the connector sometimes is not behind the door panel, but rather at the hinge portion of the body. Some are behind the door panel though, and some are near the hinge but body side.. Okay, will give that a go. thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 oh, and if the connector looks good, look for signs the wire is getting bent/broken where the door closes...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 Welcome to the site. First the bad news, you do know that 1000 miles of wear and tear is equal to one month time. So if you havent replaced your timing belt and seals, you are past due. The good news, this is a common problem. The master switch needs to be taken apart and cleaned. It probably has some carbon build up on the contacts. If you can replace the small bulbs in a christmas light set you can do this. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbhrps Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 I agree with nipper. The contacts on the power window switch get gummed up and cause intermittent problems. Its a fairly common problem on many makes and models of cars. You can get some electrical contact cleaner spray and shoot several bursts into the switch itself and then cycle it a few times. Give it a few minutes to evaporate, and then turn on the ignition and try the switch. You may have to do this 2 or 3 times. If that still doesn't get to the bottom of the issue, take the switch out of the arm rest and open it up inside a large baggy (to prevent the loss of any contacts or springs that may propel themselves out of the switch case and get lost on the garage floor). The contact cleaner spray and a wipe with a clean cloth should get rid of the grime, and a look at the innards of the switch will dictate how the unit snaps back together. Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 My same thoughts, the problem is with the contacts in the switch. Spray the contacts or replace the individual switch should fix the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nckreeves Posted July 24, 2009 Author Share Posted July 24, 2009 Welcome to the site. First the bad news, you do know that 1000 miles of wear and tear is equal to one month time. So if you havent replaced your timing belt and seals, you are past due. The good news, this is a common problem. The master switch needs to be taken apart and cleaned. It probably has some carbon build up on the contacts. If you can replace the small bulbs in a christmas light set you can do this. nipper i have the 2.5 engine. says no timing belt due till 100k. am i mistaken? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nckreeves Posted July 24, 2009 Author Share Posted July 24, 2009 I agree with nipper. The contacts on the power window switch get gummed up and cause intermittent problems. Its a fairly common problem on many makes and models of cars. You can get some electrical contact cleaner spray and shoot several bursts into the switch itself and then cycle it a few times. Give it a few minutes to evaporate, and then turn on the ignition and try the switch. You may have to do this 2 or 3 times. If that still doesn't get to the bottom of the issue, take the switch out of the arm rest and open it up inside a large baggy (to prevent the loss of any contacts or springs that may propel themselves out of the switch case and get lost on the garage floor). The contact cleaner spray and a wipe with a clean cloth should get rid of the grime, and a look at the innards of the switch will dictate how the unit snaps back together. Good Luck! if the both switches have trouble rolling up the window, do you not believe the problem would derive from the motor contact at the window in question or do you think if the master control switch contact is dirty enough it would cause the individual switch to loose electrical current and be defective as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 If 100k is what your manual says, then you're not mistaken. Earlier EJ engines were rated at 60k (except in California--guess they're better than the rest of us!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nckreeves Posted July 24, 2009 Author Share Posted July 24, 2009 Thanks to all that lent their support! will keep you updated on my progress and let you know what turns up. Keep the advice comming. any thoughts or ideas are greatly appreciated. Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nckreeves Posted July 24, 2009 Author Share Posted July 24, 2009 If 100k is what your manual says, then you're not mistaken. Earlier EJ engines were rated at 60k (except in California--guess they're better than the rest of us!) Damn hollywood and their pretentious vail of ignorance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 i have the 2.5 engine. says no timing belt due till 100k. am i mistaken? the manual should read 100k miles or 100 months. the 2.5 is an interference engine, if your timing belt breaks, you will suffer valve damage or possibly more. read up on what other maintenance to do with the timing belt like seals, pulleys, water pump? invest 500 - 600$ now and drive for 100k trouble free miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 i have the 2.5 engine. says no timing belt due till 100k. am i mistaken? You are VERY mistaken. read it again. It is 106,000 miles OR 106 months. Like I said 1 month is = 1000 miles. also look at www.cars101.com for maint intervals. Rubber parts dont really care if its 10 miles and 100 months or 100,000 miles and 10 months. They have a finite life. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nckreeves Posted July 24, 2009 Author Share Posted July 24, 2009 ok, point taken. is there any signs of when the timing belt is about to go or does it just snap and then your f-ed? but on the topic of my window endevor i have pulled off both the driver side door pannel and the door pannel of the window infected, checked the connectors, none of which were dirty or corroded. disconnected then reconnected and it has not solved the problem. is it any possibility it could be the relay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 Its possible the connector was dirty too it happnes. Just the action of disconnecting it and reconnecting it can clean the terminals. As far of the timing belt, not really. Breaking would be a good thing as all valve action would cease and nothing would hit anything. What they tend to do is jump a tooth (survivable) or three (not survivable). These are interfernce engines, which means not only hitting the pistons, but the valves hitting each other. Its sort of like asking if death is a sympton of a heart attack. Don't wait for it to happen, as a 650.00 repair can cost you a engine. Alos at this time its a good idea (read must) to do the cam seals, main seal, re-seal the oil pump, replace tensioners and idlers, replace the pcv valve. ALso replace the waterpump if you plan on putting alot of miles on the car. If you are only going to do another 60K in another 10 years, then it can go untill the next TB change. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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