Deener Posted July 30, 2009 Share Posted July 30, 2009 So after reading a few posts, replacing some leaky hoses and the t-stat I think I might have a clogged rad. Symptom is that after driving up a hill, the gauge will climb up to about 1/4 inch before the first white line. I haven't had to shut it off yet because it hasn't breached that same spot, but mind you it is the same hill that I drive daily. It doesn't climb up that far when I am just puttering around the city, seems to be just under a load like when driving up hill. I checked the rad and it seems like the fan side is cool, but the other side is quite warm. Is this to be expected or should the whole radiator be warm when it's up to temp, regardless of which side the fan is cooling? When I am testing this, I place my hand on the engine compartment side and it's hot there but then when I am checking the cooler, fan side I have to slip my hand through the grill because the fan is in the way. The system seems burped properly (no gurgles, have tons of heat) and I have the OEM T-stat in place. That being said I'd like to give the rad a flush to expell any debris/blockages. Can anyone suggest a sure fire way to flush that bad boy? I am not skilled enough to put on another fan like I have seen done here. Dean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted July 30, 2009 Share Posted July 30, 2009 So after reading a few posts, replacing some leaky hoses and the t-stat I think I might have a clogged rad. Symptom is that after driving up a hill, the gauge will climb up to about 1/4 inch before the first white line. I haven't had to shut it off yet because it hasn't breached that same spot, but mind you it is the same hill that I drive daily. It doesn't climb up that far when I am just puttering around the city, seems to be just under a load like when driving up hill. I checked the rad and it seems like the fan side is cool, but the other side is quite warm. Is this to be expected or should the whole radiator be warm when it's up to temp, regardless of which side the fan is cooling? When I am testing this, I place my hand on the engine compartment side and it's hot there but then when I am checking the cooler, fan side I have to slip my hand through the grill because the fan is in the way. The system seems burped properly (no gurgles, have tons of heat) and I have the OEM T-stat in place. That being said I'd like to give the rad a flush to expell any debris/blockages. Can anyone suggest a sure fire way to flush that bad boy? I am not skilled enough to put on another fan like I have seen done here. Dean What you are feeling is normal. What you need to be concerned about is whether there is a major temp difference between the top and bottom of the rad. Cold on top and hot on bottom will be a clogged rad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deener Posted July 30, 2009 Author Share Posted July 30, 2009 Ahhh! That makes sense. Thanks a bunch! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zartman456 Posted July 30, 2009 Share Posted July 30, 2009 Can anyone suggest a sure fire way to flush that bad boy? I am not skilled enough to put on another fan like I have seen done here. Dean Take the radiator out and flush with a hose, also remove the 2 drains on the pass side on the the rad to see if there is any debris buildup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deener Posted July 30, 2009 Author Share Posted July 30, 2009 Thats kinda what I thought. Do you think any of the flush acids/chemicals available are of any use or will the garden hose do the trick? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zartman456 Posted July 30, 2009 Share Posted July 30, 2009 I have had good luck with good ol water. You could try to spray some sort of cleaner in there and spray water in and let it sit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deener Posted July 30, 2009 Author Share Posted July 30, 2009 Hmmm...intersting. It seems oposite...it seems hotter on the top and cooler on the bottom. I am going to flush it regardless, but I am starting to wonder if it's the water pump. The pump isnt leaking, but I suppose the impeller could have disintegrated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 30, 2009 Share Posted July 30, 2009 Replace the radiator. They aren't worth flushing and it's not going to be effetive unless you have access to an alkali hot tank or similar type of chemical metal stripping. The stuff availible to the public is not worth your time or money. Your water pump isn't the issue. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deener Posted July 31, 2009 Author Share Posted July 31, 2009 Thanks GD. I am going to go with a new single row replacement. The best price I can find here in Vancouver is $108 from performance radiator. I would have liked to try a two row or whatever you call them (from the turbo) but I am just weary about coming up against any custom fitting or the likes. If it wasn't for you guys on this message board, my car wouldn't run. Dean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 There is no difference in how the two-row units connect. They are functionally identical - about 3/4" thicker is the only difference. There is no fitment issues with them. That said, you don't need it. Singe row is just fine for a non-turbo. Just remember to replace your coolant at least every two years. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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