91Sub Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 Hello, This is my first post. Well my 92 Loyale (EA82, 2wd, 5 speed, w/o turbo) starts up cold fine, but after it's warmed up I have to hold the throttle open to get it to start back up. I've read that this can be caused by the CTS being bad. Long story short, I ordered a new one from Subaruparts.com, part # 22630AA000. It seems to be different than the one on it. I was wondering if this was an improved version. the main problem is that my wiring won't reach the new sensor. So I need help figuring out how to wire it. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 Pictures would be helpful. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 Its probably the sensor for the gauge or a turbo sensor. this is what you prolly have (for turbo): or (for gauge): this is what you need: If its the one in the first pic, you could source a plug off a turbo car, xt, geo tracker, isuzu, etc. You might be able to adapt your wiring to make use of this sensor. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75129 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91Sub Posted August 2, 2009 Author Share Posted August 2, 2009 You are correct. I got the first one and needed the last one. When I ordered it there were no pictures, and I supplied my VIN to make sure it was accurate, AND they're a subaru dealer but they still got it wrong! WTF? So since I can't return it, I have to rig something to make it work. I am very, very disappointed. I may have well paid the extra $20 and got a cheapy that I know is right from Schmucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 Yea, and now since you have to go to the j-y anyways you coulda just got one there. :-\ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 Junkyard is the best option. You can usually find half a dozen that are good (bring your DMM) and it will probably be under $10 including the entry fee to the yard. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmonkey51 Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 (edited) The mpfi sensor with one tab on it is seriously less expensive @ rockauto than the normal one with the plug. Can I make it work by soldering a lead to the body? Or maybe put a grounding connector the size of the sensor itself above the o ring? Edited August 2, 2009 by tmonkey51 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 The mpfi sensor with one tab on it is seriously less expensive @ rockauto than the normal one with the plug. Can I make it work by soldering a lead to the body? Or maybe put a grounding connector the size of the sensor itself above the o ring? If you are talking about the sensor in the middle pic, no. You should just go to they j-yard even if they dont have any subies the p/n for the top sensor crosses over to a number of isuzus, geos, etc. Bring your old unit with you and match it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 The mpfi sensor with one tab on it is seriously less expensive @ rockauto than the normal one with the plug.Can I make it work by soldering a lead to the body? Or maybe put a grounding connector the size of the sensor itself above the o ring? You jumped into the middle of someone else's thread with a question that we cannot answer without more detailed information - we don't even know what car you are working on!?!? Please start your own thread with the appropriate information so we can accurately address your question. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91Sub Posted August 3, 2009 Author Share Posted August 3, 2009 Now the question is: Can I use a sensor designed for a turbo on a non-turbo motor? I found that I can buy a Bosch fuel injector repair connector, Dorman/Motormite part number 85850 to wire it in, but then I'm not sure how to tell which wire goes where. Any more help would be great. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 (edited) Now the question is: Can I use a sensor designed for a turbo on a non-turbo motor? I found that I can buy a Bosch fuel injector repair connector, Dorman/Motormite part number 85850 to wire it in, but then I'm not sure how to tell which wire goes where. Any more help would be great. Thanks Please read the link I left you in my post with the photos, it outlines the use of this sensor in an N/A vehicle. That socket appears correct, but I cant say for sure. Is there a junk yard there? It doesnt matter which wire goes on which side. Edited August 3, 2009 by ihscout54 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91Sub Posted August 3, 2009 Author Share Posted August 3, 2009 Thanks. there aren't many good j-yards around here, closest u-pull yard I know of would be spaldings in spokane. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mentis Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 (edited) Hey, I'm pretty sure I'm having the same problem. Except that I thought it was more of a fuel delivery issue... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=102014 So how about this... if it turns out that I need a CTS, I could buy yours from you, cause I do have a turbo. I'd like to make sure that it's really what I need, but your description sounds an awful lot like the problem I'm having. If you like, you can check out my thread and watch the video linked there. Then maybe you can tell me if yours starts in a similar fashion? Edited August 3, 2009 by mentis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 Hey 91Sub, take a second and fill in the location info in your profile. FYI Spaldings isn't a u-pull yard and they have only one or two of the oldies. They DO own Pull N Save across the street however, which has tons of oldies on a rotating basis. I've dealt with the CTS albeit on a turbo car and my car's problem was not the sensor but the engine harness' connector to the sensor. I had to rebuild the harness' connector and it fixed the problem. The ECU can't tell that difference if it's a simple connection problem. The CTS is exposed to coolant, obviously, and can grow corrosion in weird spots. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91Sub Posted August 4, 2009 Author Share Posted August 4, 2009 Hey, I'm pretty sure I'm having the same problem. Except that I thought it was more of a fuel delivery issue... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=102014 So how about this... if it turns out that I need a CTS, I could buy yours from you, cause I do have a turbo. I'd like to make sure that it's really what I need, but your description sounds an awful lot like the problem I'm having. If you like, you can check out my thread and watch the video linked there. Then maybe you can tell me if yours starts in a similar fashion? My starts like your description of not liking to start when it's warm. I bought a Dorman part #85850 connector, that might work. but I'll let you know if it does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mentis Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 Cool... so I'm going to be checking codes tomorrow morning and we'll what I come up with then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 There is a fairly simple way to test these... It will require the use of a digi volt & ohm meter, but will eliminate the need for unnecessary parts replacements. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mentis Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 I do have a digital multimeter, but I only know how to test for AC and DC voltage. I think there's a separate procedure for doing the other stuff... I guess I'll try to google for a manual for that unit . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91Sub Posted August 4, 2009 Author Share Posted August 4, 2009 There is a fairly simple way to test these... It will require the use of a digi volt & ohm meter, but will eliminate the need for unnecessary parts replacements. I checked the ohms on the one in my car right now and there is no resistance. that's why I came to the conclusion that it probably needed to be replaced Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mentis Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 Oh and thanks 91sub for posting the info on the connector. I need to replace mine and this saved me a lot of time researching! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91Sub Posted August 5, 2009 Author Share Posted August 5, 2009 Well I got the connector today and installed the new coolant temp sensor. It looks like it took care of my hard start problem, and it sounds like it's running better. I moved the air intake and noticed there was fuel all the way back to the air filter. Hopefully this takes care of that problem too. Thanks for everyone's help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 You shouldnt have fuel in the intake boot. Its probably just oil, which means you need to clean it and the pcv system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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