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Starting engine swap for 98 OBW


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I have started the process of swapping the dead EJ25 in my 98 OBW with a 95 EJ22. We finished doing cam and crank seals, water pump, and timing belt on the EJ22 yesterday. :banana: I hope to have the blown motor pulled by the weekend.

 

Here is a link to my Flikr set:

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/28996847@N04/sets/72157621192207565/

 

I'm sure I will be asking a few questions before the swap is complete. This board has a wealth of knowledge already, so I've been able to search previous posts so far.

 

Thanks again for all of the input on my previous post...

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I have started the process of swapping the dead EJ25 in my 98 OBW with a 95 EJ22.

 

Niiiiice. I'm not sure if you've covered this already... but I assume you've looked into the local laws for putting in an engine that's older than the chassis? I remember reading about some issue of legality there but obviously I don't know the specifics. Good luck with your swap!

 

-J

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Yeah we resealed the oil pump and replaced the thermostat. I still have a little more prep to do to the EJ22. I will have to take it off of the stand to get to the back of the engine.

 

One exhaust bolt rounded off :( I'm gonna take a blow torch to it this evening to see if I can get it loose.

 

As far as emissions go, I live in Mississippi and I don't think anyone cares around here as long as the mufflers are hooked up :)

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I wouldn't take a torch to the exhaust bolt.

 

Just hit it with some PB blaster and let it soak..Before you try to remove it, rap the end of the bolt with a hammer. Hit it fairly solid and that will help to break the bolt loose. Then use a set of vise grips and it should come right out.

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I spent yesterday evening acquiring an engine hoist, so I just hit that bolt with PB Blaster for the 6th time and let it soak. I will let you know how the vice grips do. Thanks for the advice :)

 

I'm not sure how it happened exactly, but the EJ22 from the salvage yard is missing the front driver side exhaust bolt. It just isn't there. It is on the same side as the rounded off nut, so I am waiting until I can remove that exhaust manifold to get a better look at what happened. They cut the exhaust pipes off with a blow torch about 8" from where the manifold attaches on both sides. I haven't taken many pictures of the underside of the engine, but I will. I will let you know what I find out once I get that last bolt off...

 

Thanks,

 

B

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I spent yesterday evening acquiring an engine hoist, so I just hit that bolt with PB Blaster for the 6th time and let it soak. I will let you know how the vice grips do. Thanks for the advice :)

 

I'm not sure how it happened exactly, but the EJ22 from the salvage yard is missing the front driver side exhaust bolt. It just isn't there. It is on the same side as the rounded off nut, so I am waiting until I can remove that exhaust manifold to get a better look at what happened. They cut the exhaust pipes off with a blow torch about 8" from where the manifold attaches on both sides. I haven't taken many pictures of the underside of the engine, but I will. I will let you know what I find out once I get that last bolt off...

 

Thanks,

 

B

 

 

 

Look over your new 2.2 motor very carefully for damage. Last time I had a 2.2 motor pulled from a yard, they somehow ruined a valve cover (cracked or dented it), can't exactly remember. My guess is they prolly dropped the motor. The yard guys are not gentle with the work they do, and will not tell you what damage they created.

Edited by Rooster2
typo misstake
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Two of the bolts I removed today unscrewed themselves from the head. The salvage guys didn't shear it off after all!

 

The rounded off bolt came off with vice grips and pb blaster... and a hacksaw :)

 

Part 2 Pictures:

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/28996847@N04/sets/72157621825316685/

 

I am going to use Flikr to help me remember where things were attached to the 2.5, so I'll be updating it a lot over the next few weeks.

 

Thanks for advising against the blow torch.

 

-B

 

Here is a test embedded image of the bolt that was giving me problems:

 

3790431297_8a2bf05006.jpg

Edited by BluetoE
Embedding a picture
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I couldn't find exactly which bolts needed to be removed in order to "move the A/C compressor out of the way", so here is a pic of the 5 bolts that need to be removed.

 

3797556282_6008e63ff1_b.jpg

 

The 4 that secure the compressor horizontally just need to be loosened enough to free them from the mounting bracket.

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I've already done the valve cover gaskets and the rubber washers on the valve cover bolts. I ordered a metal oil separator plate from the dealership. I read after ordering it that I could have used the metal one from the EJ25, but oh well... I needed exhaust gaskets anyway.

 

I had a breakthrough this afternoon. I was able to remove all 4 torque converter bolts! They were a pain.

 

I've been updating my Flickr page every time I come home from the shop.

 

Thanks for the input.

 

Here is the link to my latest photo set:

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/28996847@N04/sets/72157621858520291/

Edited by BluetoE
Added Link to Photos
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Today I removed the starter and all four bolts/nuts around the bell housing. I'm hoping to pull the 2.5 tomorrow.

 

The lower bell housing nuts were tough to get to, but I used a 14mm shallow socket on a wobbler with an extension and a cheater bar and was able to get them loose. It took a while....

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I was able to pull the dead EJ25 today! :banana: The most important tip I found on this board before separating the engine from the tranny was:

 

Use 2 sharp putty knives. Hammer one in the seam (I found going in on the passenger side where the engine has a lip that's higher than the tranny housing worked the best) then hammer another putty knife right next to the first one. Then take a large flathead screwdriver and hammer it between the 2 putty knives. It broke the seal and the engine slid right out. I jacked up the tranny to relieve the pressure on the studs at the bottom of the bell housing and the TC never moved. It couldn't have gone any smoother!

 

Thanks so much guys for all of the information you share with all of us noobies!

 

I've updated the Flickr stream with more pics, but here is my favorite:

 

3810234088_fb17f2dd7c_b.jpg

 

Here is the link to the full stream:

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/28996847@N04/sets/72157622005521244/

Edited by BluetoE
Misspelled words... kinda excited :)
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After removing the dead EJ25 (the upper passenger side cam won't turn at all), I am in the process of finishing up the EJ22. I took it off of the engine stand and removed the flex plate so I can now get to the rear main seal and the oil separator plate... Before I install the flex plate from the EJ25 and start dropping it into my Outback, can you guys please verify that my main seal is seated deep enough? The one on the EJ25 was seated below the metal outer ring, but pictures I have found on the boards show the seal a little above flush with the outer ring. Here is where it is now (there are about 2mm of seal showing above the outer ring:

 

8-12-09005.jpg

 

I used a coffee mug and rubber mallet to install the seal and it is firmly in place, I just don't want to force it too far in and have to start over... I have another seal just in case I mess this one up. Here is a pic of my improvised seal installer :) :

 

8-12-09007.jpg

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I borrowed the engine hoist from a friend and he had the chain already attached to it. I would assume it came from a hardware store.

 

There are lots more pics here on my Flickr stream:

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/28996847@N04/

 

It seems that I am about to max out the Flickr account, so I started a photobucket one here too:

 

http://s249.photobucket.com/albums/gg234/bluetoe1337/Subaru%20Swap/

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