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EA82T Rumble/Shimmy/Vibration Relative to Speed


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I am hoping that this is my last of the major issues with my 87 turbo wagon. It's a problem that doesn't seem to be of urgency, or a safety concern, but is rather bothersome.

 

For some time now I've been having a low bassy rumble going on somewhere in the vicinity of the front wheels. Probably passenger side... Here's what happens. It's speed dependent, so you hear and feel it the most between 30-40 on smooth roads. When breaking you can also feel the vibration quite well.

 

So far all the bearings have been replaced, and CV joints are fine. Rotors are 2 years old. The p.side knuckle has some wear on it and a little play which I thought might be the cause, but the mechanic says that it's unlikely it would cause this noise. He suggests that I replace the strut assemblies.

 

I did purchase another knuckle on this forum, but when I got it, it was just as worn as mine. Since a not worn out knuckle might be really hard to find, I'm looking into having it machined. I found a pretty good deal on a pair of strut assemblies too (link), but wanted to check if this was necessary before I spend the money on them.

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I've got that same problem on my 86 GL wagon. Just replaced the drivers side axle - the passenger was replaced about a year ago. The noise might have gotten a bit better, but it's definitely still there. The bearings are good, and freshly greased. I was thinking the brakes (they shudder a bit on braking indicating warped rotors, i guess), but before I thought about the brakes, alignment crossed my mind. My front tires are worn out, and I'm about to replace them. I'll have an alignment done at the same time, and let you know if the noise goes away.

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When this was getting more pronounced, the first thing I did is get new tires and rotors. Nothing changed. So then I had the "inner" bearings (can't remember if that's what they were called) replaced, but no difference. Had one of the axles replaced, same. Last thing that happened was I had the wheel bearings replaced as well.

 

That being said, there are some issues possible issues here. The guy who replaced the rotors, inner bearings, and axle totally ripped me off on the clutch job (as in took the money and didn't do the work). So whether he actually replaced all of those things is suspect. But the rotors check out, and the wheel bearings were done by a good shop.

 

But yes, the tires are wearing a lot on the inside (on all four I think), so good alignment would help but I need to make sure it's good mechanically first. And a do need to replace that knuckle... anybody know of where I can get one that's not worn? Rather no pay the $200 or so at 1stsubaru if I don't have to.

 

P.S.: Jr... would love to know how it turns out. Just out of curiosity, when are you planning on doing this?

Edited by mentis
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And a do need to replace that knuckle... anybody know of where I can get one that's not worn? Rather no pay the $200 or so at 1stsubaru if I don't have to.

 

 

I am not understanding what you mean by *worn* Knuckle.

 

The *Knuckle* is a solid cast piece, the wheel bearings are pressed into it. If there is any play in the axle or wheel, it IS a result of the wheel bearings.

 

Do you mean the Hub? the part with the splines that the rotor is bolted too?

 

Either way, a speed relative grinding/howling noise is a Wheel Bearing issue.

 

If it is a pronounced vibration, like you can feel it through the steering wheel, then it is a CV axle that is the cause. Even if the boots aren't torn, if it is vibrating relative to speed then it is 99% likely an axle.

 

The one other possible is the carrier bearing on the center driveline. But that is unlikely, and would be pretty pronounced right under the seat.

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Granted that I have not inspected the knuckle real close to find out how worn it is, but apparently the part of the knuckle which the bearing sits in is worn enough to create a small gap?

 

The vibration is heard/felt not so much through the steering wheel as it is through the shifter and the brakes when braking. But I could not be describing it accurately.

 

As far as the driveline goes, is that the same as the driveshaft used for 4WD? Cause I don't use the 4WD out here at all really.

 

I am getting the suspension and steering parts looked at right now and will hopefully have some more answers tonight.

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When this was getting more pronounced, the first thing I did is get new tires and rotors. Nothing changed. So then I had the "inner" bearings (can't remember if that's what they were called) replaced, but no difference. Had one of the axles replaced, same. Last thing that happened was I had the wheel bearings replaced as well.

 

That being said, there are some issues possible issues here. The guy who replaced the rotors, inner bearings, and axle totally ripped me off on the clutch job (as in took the money and didn't do the work). So whether he actually replaced all of those things is suspect. But the rotors check out, and the wheel bearings were done by a good shop.

 

But yes, the tires are wearing a lot on the inside (on all four I think), so good alignment would help but I need to make sure it's good mechanically first. And a do need to replace that knuckle... anybody know of where I can get one that's not worn? Rather no pay the $200 or so at 1stsubaru if I don't have to.

 

P.S.: Jr... would love to know how it turns out. Just out of curiosity, when are you planning on doing this?

 

If you arent sure he replaced the axles with new ones, this might be the whole problem. Dont even bother getting rebuilt axles, they are usually junk.

Another thing to look at is the axle nut itself. These need to be torqued to 145lbs and then turned another 30deg to line up the hole for the cotter pin.

Jack up the car so the tire is off the ground, grab the tire top/bottom and see if you can move the tire. If theres movement, tighten the axle nut more. If theres still vibes/noise w/e, I would replace the axle with a new one

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Exactly, that's why I'm having it checked out again. Now, I must admit that I don't feel confident in changing my own axle. Is this something I could do without doing it wrong? Cause there's a whole bunch of parts that I need to remove first, right? A bit intimidating :P...

 

I don't have a torque wrench yet either, and been thinking of getting one. I saw a couple different kinds at the auto parts store, but I'm not sure if those are any good. Any torque wrenches you can recommend...?

 

Again, I really appreciate your input. All of you guys have been great, and I'm glad to be learning a lot on the way. Thanks for being patient with me :o...

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No worries ^_^. Thanks a lot! So I did get my car back and the news is as follows..

 

 

  • Apparently my steering rack is in not so great shape. It's leaking fluid and in need of replacement. Needs new rack and pinion...
  • The knuckle is still got wear and some play in it, but isn't crucial.
  • Much of the vibration seems to be coming from one of my rear tires apparently, which has got a chunk missing out of it! Didn't know that, but that's an easy fix.

 

Axles and what not are in good shape, so I'll start with the tires and see how it goes from there. I think I'm still going get another knuckle maybe... and we'll see how how much the steering rack is going to cost.

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Granted that I have not inspected the knuckle real close to find out how worn it is, but apparently the part of the knuckle which the bearing sits in is worn enough to create a small gap?

 

Oh, worn like that. Huh. Well, you could use some Loctite 609 retaining compound. The green stuff. It will take up the gap around the bearing and keep the bearing from moving around in there.

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Hey, there's an idea... I wouldn't have thought of that ^_^. How long will that last?

 

It should last forever. That's exactly what 609 is for. I believe it can fill up to a 0.25 mm gap; there is some other Loctite that will take up a larger gap but I can't remember the number.

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[*]The knuckle is still got wear and some play in it, but isn't crucial.

[

 

Axles and what not are in good shape, so I'll start with the tires and see how it goes from there. I think I'm still going get another knuckle maybe... and we'll see how how much the steering rack is going to cost.

 

If the knuckle really is loose around hte bearings, then that needs replaced. althbough I can;t Imagine how the bearings could move in that housing if pressed in properly. But there should be Zero play in the bearings.

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