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EJ25 oil pump: sealant between backing plate on the pump itself?


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I am replacing the head gaskets on an 1997 EJ25 and took apart the oil pump as suggested by some guides. I think I should have left it alone now, since the screws seemed to be in solidly.

My question is whether I need to use sealant on the plate with the screws that holds in the pump rotors, or just between the block and the pump? From the design, it does not look like it needs any since the oil can seep out the front anyway.

 

Also, if you know it off the top of your head, what is the torque for the screws on the pump? Otherwise I will just torque them to something reasonable like 20ft/lbs with threadlocker.

 

Thanks,

Cliff

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I'm not 100% sure what you're asking but i'll mention how to install assuming all the backing plate screws are in tight. It's actually really easy, just bolt the pump to the block, that's it!

 

Sealant is only needed to seal the pump to the block, that's it, only one surface. Anaerobic sealant is ideal, but RTV can be used. Thread locker is not used on the oil pump to block bolts.

 

The front crank seal needs to be replaced while it's off (i'm sure you did).

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Thanks grossgary for the reply. The question was meant to be whether I need to place any sealant between the backing plate (the on held on by the screws) and the pump. From your instructions, it sounds like no which is what I figured. I will place threadlocker on the (cleaned/degreased) screws only, and replace the O ring on the block.

 

About the front crank oil seal- is it possible to put it on after the pump is installed. I misplaced the one that came in the rebuild kit, and need to get a new one on Monday. I was planning to put everything together, and then install the crank seal later. Is is problematic to install the front seal after the pump is on the block?

 

Thanks,

Cliff

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cliff - you can definitely replace the crank seal after the pump is on the block. actually that's how you're supposed to do it. "technically" installing the seal then the pump can deform the seal and not get a proper seal. i always do it that way though because it's much easier that way.

 

you'll want to remove the radiator to gain clearance as it'll take some pounding to get it to seat properly. they're a bit annoying to get in there, but that's how it's typically done.

 

good luck.

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Is is problematic to install the front seal after the pump is on the block?

Thanks,

Cliff

 

In some ways, I'd recommend it. I installed the seal with the pump off the block and had a heck of a time working the seal over the front snout of the crank shaft without twisting the lip of the new viton seal under itself. Maybe because the new stuff is more pliable than the old nitrile seals.

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