shep_11 Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 I am a new old subaru owner. Decided to do the weber conversion, ordered the the redline kit. Plugged all the vacuum lines i could find but am having a problem. Car starts and is getting plenty of fuel but wont idle. It is a 1985 Subaru GL wagon 4x4. I had to take the electric choke off so it would clear the power steering, will this cause me problems? Do i need to take the thick hard rubber spacer off that was under the hitachi? What vacuum lines do i have to have attached.. There are two coming off the distributer, not sure where these should go. And do i need one for power prake? Also wasnt sure how to throttle cable is suppose to be set up. The weber comes came with one attached with a return spring but i cannot figuire out the correct way to attach the throttle cable. There was one hole in the lever that i could jam the end through so it does work the throttle but i almost sure its not correct. I have searched the other weber posts but cant find the information i need. Thanks in advance, Wes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redcap Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 I have absolutely nothing constructive to say and zero Weber experience, but a lot of guys run them here and someone should be able to answer your question soon. Welcome to the board! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 1. Put the choke back on - use the Hitachi's rubber spacer to get some height and then put a dent in the PS reservoir large enough to clear the choke. No it won't hurt it. 2. Whichever vac line on the distributor pulls on the advance plate is the one you hook to the carb. Leave the other open. 3. Hook the EGR line (or add a line going to the EGR valve) to the other port on the front of the carb - the one that's currently blocked by a small brass screw. 4. Yes you need the power brake booster line. Leave it. 5. Use the throttle linkage from the Hitachi - just bolt it on the Weber's shaft and then fabricate a holder for the throttle cable and adjust it so the cable is just barely tight when the choke has pulled off and the fast idle cam is not engaged. 6. Warm it up before tuning the idle speed and mixture. The mixture should be at around 2.5 turns out, and the throttle plate should be barely cracked open. Just tune it by ear - turn the screw out till it stumbles (rich) and then in till it stumbles again (lean) and pick something in the middle of those two. Usually as lean as you can get it with a solid idle. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shep_11 Posted August 19, 2009 Author Share Posted August 19, 2009 Thanks for the reply. Did everything you said and now it runs good. Although i broke a bolt off in the power steering pump putting the reservior back on... Im gonna try to drill and easy out it tomorrow. M8x1.5 Right? Thanks again, Wes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 19, 2009 Share Posted August 19, 2009 Easy out's are BAD - don't use one if you can help it - they very often break. Anyhing is better. Best way is to weld a nut to what's left and turn it out. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik litchy Posted August 19, 2009 Share Posted August 19, 2009 ive never heard of needing a choke on a weber. tell me why its needed? i always thought some Weber carbs have an enrichment circuit that does the same thing as a choke without restricting airflow. i agree i would weld a nut to the broken bolt. either that or call someone with a portable EDM... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted August 19, 2009 Share Posted August 19, 2009 ive never heard of needing a choke on a weber. tell me why its needed? i always thought some Weber carbs have an enrichment circuit that does the same thing as a choke without restricting airflow. I've done three webers on our cars over the years. All the webers had an electric choke; and yes, they need it to start on cold days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shep_11 Posted August 20, 2009 Author Share Posted August 20, 2009 Got bolt out. Was able to take a dremel and cut a groove down the center and unscrew with a screwdriver. New question: I set the idle after the choke had completely opened. Its idling right around 900 according to my tac, warmed up. When i start it completely cold it seems like it takes to long to warm up. Probably about 5-7 minutes of giving it gas before it will idle by itself. It appears the choke is working correctly i can watch it open as it gets warmer. Any help would be appreciated, Wes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slideshow86 Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 -I set the idle after the choke had completely opened. (Its idling right around 900 according to my tac, warmed up.) -When i start it completely cold it seems like it takes to long to warm up. (Probably about 5-7 minutes of giving it gas before it will idle by itself.) -It appears the choke is working correctly i can watch it open as it gets warmer. This is the EXACT same issue I am having. Before I swapped the jetting around (my jetting was assembled wrong) Its not hard to start, just doesnt like to idle cold. I have to reset the idle, then once warm, it idles high again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boozebrother6 Posted November 29, 2009 Share Posted November 29, 2009 1. Put the choke back on - use the Hitachi's rubber spacer to get some height and then put a dent in the PS reservoir large enough to clear the choke. No it won't hurt it. 2. Whichever vac line on the distributor pulls on the advance plate is the one you hook to the carb. Leave the other open. 3. Hook the EGR line (or add a line going to the EGR valve) to the other port on the front of the carb - the one that's currently blocked by a small brass screw. 4. Yes you need the power brake booster line. Leave it. 5. Use the throttle linkage from the Hitachi - just bolt it on the Weber's shaft and then fabricate a holder for the throttle cable and adjust it so the cable is just barely tight when the choke has pulled off and the fast idle cam is not engaged. 6. Warm it up before tuning the idle speed and mixture. The mixture should be at around 2.5 turns out, and the throttle plate should be barely cracked open. Just tune it by ear - turn the screw out till it stumbles (rich) and then in till it stumbles again (lean) and pick something in the middle of those two. Usually as lean as you can get it with a solid idle. GD I HAVE AN 85 SUBARU WAGON GL TWO WHEEL DRIVE THAT I HAVE STRIPPED FOR A DESTRUCTIION DERBY. i CANT GET IT TO STAY RUNNNG,IT WILL START WITH NO PROBLEMS THEN JUST DIE AFTER ABOUT 15 SECONDS. iT SEEMS LIKE IT IS RUNNING OUTTA GAS BUT THE TANK IS FULL. MY BUDDY SAID IT MIGHT BE THE ELECTRIC CHOKE WE FOUND THE CHOKE AND MESSED WITH IT A BIT AND IT RAN. BUT NOW DIES AGAIN. ANY THOUGHTS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akc Posted November 29, 2009 Share Posted November 29, 2009 I HAVE AN 85 SUBARU WAGON GL TWO WHEEL DRIVE THAT I HAVE STRIPPED FOR A DESTRUCTIION DERBY. i CANT GET IT TO STAY RUNNNG,IT WILL START WITH NO PROBLEMS THEN JUST DIE AFTER ABOUT 15 SECONDS. iT SEEMS LIKE IT IS RUNNING OUTTA GAS BUT THE TANK IS FULL. MY BUDDY SAID IT MIGHT BE THE ELECTRIC CHOKE WE FOUND THE CHOKE AND MESSED WITH IT A BIT AND IT RAN. BUT NOW DIES AGAIN. ANY THOUGHTS. Check the fusable links little black box in the engine compartment pull the cover off and make sure all the fuses are working if you check the forum you can find out which one deals with fuel try that. ( mine looked ok but I ran some wires and found out one of the links was bad make sure you replace it with another fusable link)./ Mine was doing what yours was doing and it was the fusable links Of course I am not a mechanic and it could be something else. but it wouldn't hurt to check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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