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Timing mark can look way off and still be OK


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TB replacement on my neices 96 Legacy 2.2. Last time it was done by a respected local guy that has specialized on subaru for many years. I lined up things before taking it apart. This pic was after I finished but it was exactly the same when I started (the old belt line up). I made the mark with a razor blade in the driver side cam cover before starting (you can see it in background)...this was where the camshaft notch lined up prior to me removing old belt. When putting on the old belt I REALLY had to convince myself to leave it there before finishing up...it was a hard decision...LOL

It ran like a top prior to doing the belt replacement so I went with it again. Started it before putting everything back together...fired right up...then stalled ...started again...seemed to run ok but stumbled at idle...uh oh...then I wondered if the alternator needed to be hooked up to run correctly. Put the belt on the alt. and she ran flawlessly (I thought my 99 2.5 ran normal without the alt...? when I did the TB on it)

 

Had I moved the belt one tooth to the left(as looking at the pic), the white mark on the belt would definitely be on the other side of the notch in the platic cover...but the mark on the cam sprocket would be closer to the plastic notch than it is....I'm guessing that the plastic cover is not that accurate or somehow (I don't know how) shifted some

Oh...and the other camshaft lined up perfectly as well as the crank sprocket

post-743-136027635565_thumb.jpg

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I'll bet this was an aftermarket belt ( Gates,Dayco, etc ). This is common on the right sprocket of any of the SOHC EJ engines.

 

The toothed belt to mark on the right side is always a 1/2 tooth off, for example 45 1/2 teeth. The aftermarket mfgrs mark it at the NEXT full tooth, in the example 46 teeth. So when an UNEXPERIENCED mechanic replaces the belt, they have a 50/50 chance of getting it correct.

 

This is a common problem for misfires ( cyl 1 & 3 ) and rough idles after a belt replacement.

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I'll bet this was an aftermarket belt ( Gates,Dayco, etc ). This is common on the right sprocket of any of the SOHC EJ engines.

 

The toothed belt to mark on the right side is always a 1/2 tooth off, for example 45 1/2 teeth. The aftermarket mfgrs mark it at the NEXT full tooth, in the example 46 teeth. So when an UNEXPERIENCED mechanic replaces the belt, they have a 50/50 chance of getting it correct.

 

This is a common problem for misfires ( cyl 1 & 3 ) and rough idles after a belt replacement.

 

Not so...I only use Subaru belts...this is the first time I am using the PCI pulley kit from The Import Experts tho....the belt that came with that kit is going to waste...

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I have only installed one of their belts. The MitsubOshi on a 95 2.2 recently. I get my Dayco belts locally and on the DOHC on the drivers side the hash marks on the cams don't totally line up IIR.

 

Sometimes it's cheaper to buy the packaged kit and pitch the belt versus just buying the idlers.

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I have only installed one of their belts. The MitsubOshi on a 95 2.2 recently. I get my Dayco belts locally and on the DOHC on the drivers side the hash marks on the cams don't totally line up IIR.

 

Sometimes it's cheaper to buy the packaged kit and pitch the belt versus just buying the idlers.

 

 

Dave...thats exactly what I did...I pitched the PCi belt and bought a suby...that is a suby in my photo

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Marks on belts are hardly the best way to align the sprockets. Set the crank at TDC on number 1 before removing the old belt. Take note of marks on the sprockets, or make your own, and make marks on the cover that align with the marks on the sprockets just in case you need to move them. As long as the sprockets stay in place, or get put back in the right place before installing the belt, it doesn't matter how you put the belt on it will still work.

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Someone told me of a cunning way to make sure you have the belts just as they were if you are not too confident about doing this job.

 

They reckoned they got a knife and ran it all the way around the belt in the middle, so they had split the belt into two thin ones. Then they pulled the front half of the belt off, slipped the new belt on as far as it would go, then cut the back half of the belt off the car.

 

I thought it was a pretty cunning plan for non-mechanical sorts!

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They reckoned they got a knife and ran it all the way around the belt in the middle, so they had split the belt into two thin ones.

 

 

Very logical . . . but sounds like one heckuva lot of work slicing a belt longways, especially when a magic marker or paint pen is so easy to use!

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Well, I suppose if you didn't know what you were doing though the time to run the stanely knife all the way around would be minimum compared to doing it wrong and having to nut it all out... and the worry too!

 

Just thought it might appeal to some people.

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Well, I suppose if you didn't know what you were doing though the time to run the stanely knife all the way around would be minimum compared to doing it wrong and having to nut it all out... and the worry too!

 

Just thought it might appeal to some people.

 

 

Sorry Log1call, didn't mean to sound like I was attacking your suggestion--the logic is good. Was just making an observation.

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So from what I have read it sounds like I could have set the timming using the notches and still be off either way?

 

 

Not trying to muddy the waters here, but we had a long discussion about this when I did my timing belt a couple of years ago:

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=69698&highlight=timing+belt

 

Please note that I did shift the cam sprocket (driver's side) one tooth left (counterclockwise) from what the pic shows.

 

Still don't know the answer as to how much difference one tooth makes, but my car has been running smooth as silk for over two years (or at least seems so to me!)

 

Good luck.

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