Redcap Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 My buddy Rob found a nice piece of 2"x2"x24" .250" wall stainless last night at work...he also asked for dimensions over the phone. Apparently he had nothing to do at work all night. Today, I have a REALLY beefy set of blocks for the front of my 3dr. Gonna get a piece of flat bar tomorrow, get the rear built too. Hopefully, it'll be lifted by Friday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Scooby Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 nice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markus56 Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 I think i might see a problem in the non angled blocks... the offset holes should be in the lateral direction on the block if that makes sense. If I'm wrong, please correct me and i will shut up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
one eye Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 I think i might see a problem in the non angled blocks... the offset holes should be in the lateral direction on the block if that makes sense. If I'm wrong, please correct me and i will shut up No your right John, that is wrong, the straight blocks need to have 15* drilled in them as well...................... Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markus56 Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 Right idea, wrong direction Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redcap Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 No your right John, that is wrong, the straight blocks need to have 15* drilled in them as well...................... Jeff They did have the 15* drilled in, just the wrong way... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markus56 Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 That is what I meant. I can see the offset in the pictures, but as you said, in the wrong direction Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redcap Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 That is what I meant. I can see the offset in the pictures, but as you said, in the wrong direction I was afraid of that when I first saw the straight blocks. Fail. Guess it'll get lifted next week then. Oh well, there was plenty of 2x2 stainless left. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted September 13, 2009 Share Posted September 13, 2009 Maybe its me but on those straight blocks there doesnt seem to be alot of meat around those bottom bolt holes. I can see something getting riped apart at some point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markus56 Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 Maybe its me but on those straight blocks there doesnt seem to be alot of meat around those bottom bolt holes. I can see something getting riped apart at some point. Those are the ones that are drilled wrong Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redcap Posted November 11, 2009 Author Share Posted November 11, 2009 Replaced those two .250" wall straight blocks with some .125" wall stainless blocks. Also took possession of my rear lift today. Tomorrow sounds like the day it goes up. Any tips or secrets I should know about before I begin? What size bolts did you guys use on the rear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3eyedwagon Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 Take your front swaybar off right from the get go. It'll do nothing but fight you the whole way. You won't be able to drop your front control arms far enough to get the blocks in otherwise. So save yourself some time, and just cut it off before you even try. The car will still drive just fine without it. The rear is quite simple. Just take the struts off, and reverse them 180*. What was originally pointing towards the outside of the car, should be facing the center diff when you're finished. We used 5/8" bolts about 1" to 1 1/2" in length with matching nuts, and lock washers. Metric will work just fine too. Just take the one out of the body with you to the store when you buy them, compare diameter, and you need just enough to get through the strut top mount, and your extenders. TADA, you're set! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redcap Posted November 11, 2009 Author Share Posted November 11, 2009 Take your front swaybar off right from the get go. It'll do nothing but fight you the whole way. You won't be able to drop your front control arms far enough to get the blocks in otherwise. So save yourself some time, and just cut it off before you even try. The car will still drive just fine without it. The rear is quite simple. Just take the struts off, and reverse them 180*. What was originally pointing towards the outside of the car, should be facing the center diff when you're finished. We used 5/8" bolts about 1" to 1 1/2" in length with matching nuts, and lock washers. Metric will work just fine too. Just take the one out of the body with you to the store when you buy them, compare diameter, and you need just enough to get through the strut top mount, and your extenders. TADA, you're set! Sweet, thanks! I don't care for the sway bar anyway, it was already on the chopping block. Got a couple more questions, though...want to get my ducks in a row so this goes as smoothly as possible tomorrow. Reuse the top bolts (extender to body) or are longer required? Once the sway bar is removed, will there be enough droop in the control arm or should I remove the strut from the front? I'm sure I'll think of another thing or two by the end of the evening... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Beast I Drive Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 2" lift is the simplest lift to install ever. FRONT. (process is the same on both sides) Step 1: Remove sway bar 2. Unbolt the control arm pivot bolt 3. Unbolt the 3 nuts at the top of the strut 4. Install blocks on strut top, attach using the original nuts. 5. Install the strut. Use 5/16x1" or drill out the holes in the strut mount and use 3/8"X1" bolts and nuts. Tighten all the bolts and nuts. 6. Re-attach the lower control arm at the pivot point. Check brake lines to make sure they are not over extended (They shouldnt be) REAR. (also the same on both sides) Step 1: Remove the 2 bolts at the top of the strut that attach to the body. 2. Unbolt the bottom of the strut and rotate 180 degrees, and re-attach. 3. Install the rear blocks on the struts with 1/2"x1" bolts and nuts. You may have to drill out the holes in the strut top bracket to make them fit. 4. Attach the lifted brakets to the body with the original bolts. Tighten all the bolts and nuts. Check the brake lines to make sure they are not over extended (they shouldnt be) Put the wheels back on and enjoy the lifted awesomeness! -Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redcap Posted November 12, 2009 Author Share Posted November 12, 2009 A couple more (probably dumb) questions... The holes on my rear blocks are already drilled to 9/16" on both sides. Do I need to go larger for the bolt attaching to the body? I figure the strut mount will need to be drilled, but will it take that large of a hole? The front blocks have 7/16" bolts welded in. Will the strut mount holes up front take drilling to that size without significantly weakening them? Thanks for putting up with me and my questions. You guys kick rump roast! I'll have pictures tomorrow! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Beast I Drive Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 No need to drill any bigger in the back, the stock bolts fit through a 1/2" hole no problem. For the front you will have to drill out the strut mount holes to 7/16", which is no big deal, it won't weaken it enough to make a difference. Get to it! I wanna see some 30's on this thing already -Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redcap Posted November 12, 2009 Author Share Posted November 12, 2009 (edited) No need to drill any bigger in the back, the stock bolts fit through a 1/2" hole no problem. For the front you will have to drill out the strut mount holes to 7/16", which is no big deal, it won't weaken it enough to make a difference. Get to it! I wanna see some 30's on this thing already -Bill The rear blocks are already drilled to 9/16", they were when my buddy Rob dropped them off. It'll happen today, after my son gets picked up by his mother. Pics this afternoon or evening! No tires for it yet, though...so it'll look pretty stupid with the stock little 13" pizza-cutters under a 2" lift. Edited November 12, 2009 by Redcap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redcap Posted November 13, 2009 Author Share Posted November 13, 2009 Well, looks like it'll be tomorrow when it actually gets lifted. My son's mother was exceedingly late, so I out of light and need to hit the hardware store for 9/16"x1" bolts for the rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Breeke Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 Your awful close my my place....you could come use my shop it's lit and whatnot..... just a thought.....let me know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redcap Posted November 13, 2009 Author Share Posted November 13, 2009 Your awful close my my place....you could come use my shop it's lit and whatnot..... just a thought.....let me know Damnit! That makes me somewhat upset that I've already torn it apart! Thanks for the offer, though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Breeke Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 lol... well next time......or box your shi...stuff up and put your car in a backpack and hitch hike over...lol anyway...i'd like to see this rig...you should let me come see it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 9/16"x1" bolts for the rear. if you use 7/16 you will not have to drill the strut top mount Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redcap Posted November 13, 2009 Author Share Posted November 13, 2009 No need to drill any bigger in the back, the stock bolts fit through a 1/2" hole no problem. For the front you will have to drill out the strut mount holes to 7/16", which is no big deal, it won't weaken it enough to make a difference. Get to it! I wanna see some 30's on this thing already -Bill Workin' on it! Pretty sure I'm going to go with 27" Hankook Dynapro MTs. lol... well next time......or box your shi...stuff up and put your car in a backpack and hitch hike over...lol anyway...i'd like to see this rig...you should let me come see it. That can be arranged! if you use 7/16 you will not have to drill the strut top mount I took care of that last night while choking down a few beers and hogged the holes out to 9/16". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redcap Posted November 13, 2009 Author Share Posted November 13, 2009 And now, for some pictures! The Legacy seats are really comfortable! My homemade GPS mount and "custom" shift knobs, scavenged relics from my barn. Phase 1: complete. On to Phase 2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivantruckman Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 I didnt know it was a coupe. looks awsome lifted, just waiting for some big ole knobbies Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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