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What Have You Done to your Soobie lately? (Please post in here and keep it going)


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RockAuto.com has the RHD rack and pinion for $242 with a $125 core charge. Unless you can find an old used one, that's probably the best price you can find.

 

last time we called for availability they said out of stock. he would have to pull his rack and send it to them... :-\

 

and kristjan I forgot iceland was lhd lol :grin:

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I put my GL back together today, added some parts like a plate light, speedo, non-rusty fenders... etc. Some other crap that'll hopefully get it past inspection.

 

I need to get out and do some more wheeling :D

 

 

I got my EJ20H RUNNING IN THE BRAT WHOOP

 

Cheers R.:grin:

 

NICE!!

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1987 GL:

 

-took it wheeling to 12000 ft

-got another radiator fan so it stays cool while going slow up steep grades

 

1998 Legacy Outback:

 

-installed group N control arm bushings and fabricated 30mm spacers to fit the outback

-installed new tie-rods and ends, OEM rack boots

-installed new ball joints

-installed a new right front axle

-got all my Pedders HD lift springs, KYB struts, mounts, etc... (front and back)

-ebayed 2 sheets of 1/2" HDPE to cut spacers (http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/31520-diy-strut-spacer-lift-templates.html)

 

What do you guys think? Should I put just 1/2" in back and leave the front alone or should I go through the trouble of 1/2" in front and stack two 1/2" spacers in back? I'm leaning towards just one 1/2" spacer in back and call it good. This is mostly a highway/car-camping rig. The 87 GL is the off-roader.

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Doing some resealing on my engine.

Was running a bit low on oil pressure and needed some other seals, so I pulled the engine out (ea82T) and took it down to block and heads still together.

The gear on the oil pump had split and the metal band on the back had fallen off and wore a hole through the pump :eek::eek::eek:. Got another one coming on Thursday so no biggey.

Also wanted to stop my power steering from leaking all over the place and took it out, took the reservoir off to change the o-ring out.

Noticed that there seemed to be lots of signs of leaking from the front bearing seal area, sourced a bearing for it locally and took the shaft out to get the bearing off. Notice a seal behind the bearing---- and it was missing parts of the inner lip......:confused: Part number on it is NOK ae 0816f.... yeah right.... try to find one of those. Crosses over to a honda part number (91215PHR003) for 2004 insight manual transmission shifter seal.... No one locally has one of those or any other seal that is the right size (18x30x7) was looking on several pages and thought that the oil pump seal looked real close to the right size and since I had one already to the pump reseal I pulled it out and checked it. It is 18x30x9 hmmmmmm....... the back looks like it might compress a little so give it a shot. Will have to let you all know if it all works like it is supposed to (i.e. no weird sounds or leaks) but this seems like a really good solution for the power steering pump leaks.

 

Hush

 

 

Finished doing the reseal, added a new clutch kit, got it all back in and seems a bit sluggish...... oh and the turbo is whining at me......

 

Got a turbo for someone on here and it seems to want to whine also....:-\

Also put in lifters I got from Mitzpa (4 I had) and 4 just rebuilt... still getting lifter noise. New oil pump and seals, o-ring and MM gasket.

I always hate hearing the turbo whine, makes me nervous.

 

Hush

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Last Saturday, I did the Weber swap. With the Trans-Dapt 2107 carb adapter, the water crossover in the intake seals up fine with the gasket and a little bit of RTV (copper was the only color I had when I started).

 

I have to say, the change in driveability and power was rather astonishing. And once I had completed the swap and hit the key, it buzzed to live immediately. It does diesel a little bit on occasion, but that isn't a big deal at all.

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2marrow im fixing the duty c solenoid issue on my 95 legacy wagon....ugh.

ive done a full stereo, blacked out taillights, eyelids on the headlights, custom cold air intake right into the front bumper cover, removed tow hitch lol. porting header from a ej25 to put on my ej22.....got a magnaflow muffler from work free...gunna put that on soon. 3" inlet 4" outlet....should be decent sounding. i also painted the interior trim blue. looks good though.....will post pics or check out

 

cardomain- http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3924038/1995-subaru-legacy-ls-wagon-4d ....all the pics are there except for the stereo pics i think......

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Pulled an '87 Rx over to the carport, its motor gets pulled and installed in an '86 gl-10 that will be up for sale soon:)

When this sells and im finished with 2 current ej conversions...no more ea82t cars:banana:

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Well here is what I recently did to my $300 Subaru.

 

Replaced from fender, still looking for hood due to deer hit.

Front foglight

Head gaskets and resealed whole motor

Timing belt and all rollers

Tensioner

Water pump

Reseal oil pump

Separator plate

Clutch and pressure plate and bearings

knock sensor

Every fluid in the car

Belts

All hoses

Thermostat

Radiator cap

Front struts and oem springs

Rear shocks/ original springs

Rear rotors and pads

New tires

Headlight adjustment

Cabin air filters

Full recon

Install my xm radio

Charged ac changed high and low valve

Installed missing plastic wheel well

Oem air filter and PVC valve

Valve adjustment

-------------------

Came with 2 new tires

New head light

New exhaust

New front brakes

 

 

I think I'm about covered for a while. I'm still well under 2k in to my legacy

 

subaru_legacy_003_0.JPG

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made an xt6 steering wheel fit on my loyale. xt splines are larger, or smaller. one or the other, either way, i didnt fit and i had to hack up my steering wheel to make it fit.

 

_MediaCard_BlackBerry_pictures_IMG01274.jpg

 

im also 2 days into a motor swap. (obd2 EJ)

IMG01283.jpg

 

motors in, gotta do the radiator hoses, powersteering pump, fuel lines, and then the exhaust and wiring.. (ugh, not looking forward to wiring)

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Blew the lower radiator hose last night.. used tape to hold it which did not help too much.. Tried to get a quick as I could to a place where I could get some water and spend the night till the morning.. I blew a red light just as a cop was waiting on the other side of the intersection.. I knew what was coming next but he let me go with no issues.. did lots of coasting in neutral

 

When I did get to the place I started pouring in the water and it was very easy to tell when it got to the heads because I had old faithful..

 

 

I will now always keep some duct tape in my tool bag now

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Blew the lower radiator hose last night.. used tape to hold it which did not help too much.. Tried to get a quick as I could to a place where I could get some water and spend the night till the morning.. I blew a red light just as a cop was waiting on the other side of the intersection.. I knew what was coming next but he let me go with no issues.. did lots of coasting in neutral

 

When I did get to the place I started pouring in the water and it was very easy to tell when it got to the heads because I had old faithful..

 

 

I will now always keep some duct tape in my tool bag now

 

Next time you blow a hose, don't put the rad cap on. This will keep the pressure in the system down as to not blow the tape off. You'll need to periodically stop to add more water... But you won't keep blowing the hose worse.

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