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What Have You Done to your Soobie lately? (Please post in here and keep it going)


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recently replaced the dried out valve cover gaskets that were leaking like crazy on my ea82. Also had a buddy tint the windows! (not pictured)

 

currently in the process of rebuilding the hitachi carb.

 

post-51693-0-40361700-1391051006_thumb.jpg

 

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installed central and remote locking to my wagon. Nice addition. 4hours on the drivers door then 4 hours on the rest, a little frustrating at times but not too bad.

Ahhhh I have been thinking about it myself but seems to be more hassle than it's worth, I'm just glad my key opens up the other 3 doors I think I can deal, although it would be nice:). But I would like to hear more of the set up and system you installed and how:)

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Switched out my regular head lamps for the halogen 9004 units from Harbor Freight. In the daylight it is hard to even tell if your headlights are on. They are supposed to be best at night, so i will give it a drive this evening and report back.

 

image_12827.jpg

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Ahhhh I have been thinking about it myself but seems to be more hassle than it's worth, I'm just glad my key opens up the other 3 doors I think I can deal, although it would be nice:). But I would like to hear more of the set up and system you installed and how:)

 

I put a compustar 1WAM-S unit in my Loyale last year. I love it. Think about winter when your key lock is frozen. Hitting a button on the key fob unlocks your car.  Since mine is a sedan, I also wired a solenoid to pop the trunk (and turn on my LED light strip too).  It does have remote start too but didn't get around to hooking it up yet.

 

 

 

 

 

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installed central and remote locking to my wagon. Nice addition. 4hours on the drivers door then 4 hours on the rest, a little frustrating at times but not too bad.

 

Hi Tom,

 

I would be interested to learn what you did on the driver side door. When I installed my system I mounted an actuator inside the door to move the locking rod.  I used a resistive rests at ground circuit to control it.

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Just used an aftermarket central locking kit, same as this one http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/other-accessories/auction-713436763.htm

gives me remote lock/unlock as well but no remote start.

all wiring for it (central unit to actuators already has connectors) just had to hook up constant 12+ and ground.

 

I didn't use the mounting tabs that they supply, just tried to find the best spot for the actuators to push/pull the lock and where i could just drill through the door to hold them there, once i had the actuator somewhere i thought it would work i bent the supplied rod so that it would move the door lock, i decided to move off of a short vertical rod close to the outer edge of the door instead of the more horizontal long rod since i couldn't see how i would mount it to move the longer rod. I drilled a hole low down in the door and right where the wiring access panel is? near the front doors to run the wires, ran the wires across behind the dash to passenger door, pulled the carpet up down the edge to run the wires to the rear drivers side then the carpet to just behind front seats to run the wires across to the rear passenger side, was just enough stock wire to make the rear doors.

 

I think the rear doors were probably the worst, but that might of just been me, front passenger was the easier and then probably running the wires was the easiest part. The kit also comes with connecters to flash indicators, fake flashing alarm light, a window rising output and a spare +ve trigger and a spare -ve trigger. I haven't hooked up the indicators yet and may not unsure yet. Mounted the blue flashing led in the dash next to the electric mirror controls.And when  i say it was frustrating that was mostly due to me starting this at about 7pm both nights so i was still going when it was dark outside using a couple of lights.

 

If anyone wants pictures im happy to get a few of how the actuators are mounted, keep in mind how i've done any of this may not be the best way

 

Tom.

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0uzn.jpg

bgj9.jpg

Was able to get the passenger side GL trim all on, installed a new stereo, and installed a rear hatch spoiler i took off of the GL i got the trim off of and attached the front grill i got off of a 4WD GL Coupe. Very productive day!

Edited by Scooner
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Here's a shot of the other side for Wagonist, not sure if it will show him what he's looking for or not:

DSCN1222_zps178a078b.jpg

Yes, tells me the body looms are too different :(

But I was kind of expecting to have to do a full loom replacement if I ever get to import a coupe...

Easy when the whole car's apart anyway. I suspect a coupe loom isn't so different to a sedan loom. Just not connect the rear door switches, and hook up the tailgate open light.

Though missing the rear wiper stuff. So prob easier to adapt a wagon loom instead. Then change the plug type for the rear lights.

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Got my 91 Loyale up to, well, way faster than the posted limit of 55, hitting 7k in first, second and third, bang shifting it. Then got out of it cause I really don't need a ticket for driving that fast.  Took my 89 out yesterday, more or less just to make noise and try to kill whats left of the front tires.  I don't know why, both cars have spfi ea82's in them, but that 89 never seems to have any problems spinning the tires on pavement, usually all they way through first, and part of second.

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Switched out my regular head lamps for the halogen 9004 units from Harbor Freight. In the daylight it is hard to even tell if your headlights are on. They are supposed to be best at night, so i will give it a drive this evening and report back.

 

image_12827.jpg

 

As you know, I ran these on my Loyale. These bulbs do not last long. I drive with my headlights on all the time, but these don't last long. I have since switched to Sylvania Silver Star Ultras, whatever the $55/pair bulbs are at O'Reilly. They have AMAZING night performance and have been going strong since October 2013.

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Yes, Blueish lights are Bad idea, especially if you drive during rainy nights...

 

 

threw some redrilled 6 lug 15s and 235 75 15s on my brat...

 

Much Better! ... But somehow looks like they're mounted Backwards?

 

Kind Regards.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
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Went ahead and bit the bullet on the color change, went with the satin black. Figured I may as well since I didn't like the gray I had found, and something definitely needed done about the multi-tones of gray I had going on in it. And black interiors in old Subes are rare. In process of re-assembling the dash now, with new foam seals for the HVAC channels.

 

DSCN1227_zpsa225bbc6.jpg

 

DSCN1228_zps957d7004.jpg

 

DSCN1229_zps452f759f.jpg

 

Waiting on a 'new' HVAC blower switch with complete connector and some length of the harness still attached so I can repair

mine; at some point when the PO had it, that connector melted a bit.....

 

 

[please disregard the janky 70's style fake wood paneling in my shop. I didn't build that and will be remodeling this summer lol]

Edited by SmashedGlass
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Noticed a noise a couple days ago when I started the car. Didn't think much of it. Yesterday morning, the noise got kinda worse, but I still drove to work. After I got off of work, I decided to see what the issue was. Opened the hood and started the engine. Clutch fan was wobbling about so much, it looked like it was gonna break. I shut it off, and noticed my water pump pulley was loose. Great... Wasn't too bad, so I started driving (trying to keep RPMs below 3K), but the noise kept getting worse. Eventually steam started coming out of my engine bay, temp gauge went up, etc. Pulled into the O'Reilly parking lot, only to find the engine bay covered in coolant.

 

The water pump pulley was at like a 30 degree angle, pointing up. No way I could drive home now. Went into the O'Reilly and bought a new pump, gasket, o-ring, coolant, and sealant. Luckily they had it all in stock! With no other choice, I replaced the water pump in the parking lot. I don't have A/C, P/S, or timing belt covers, so it wasn't a daunting task. Took me about 1.5 hours (I love EA82s!!!). The guy next to me took about the same amount of time to change a light bulb on his Mercedes. :banana:

 

Repair was successful, and it wasn't leaking. Was running hot on the way home, but I bled out the cooling system again and it's running cool again. I've had bad luck with O'Reilly water pumps, but hopefully this one will last. I didn't really have a choice to order a Japanese made pump.

 

All in all, not bad for a roadside repair. Guys at O'Reilly were cool with it. Luckily all my coolant had expelled itself on the road, so I didn't have a mess to clean up. :brow: My old pump is absolute trash. The fins had damaged the pump, scraped metal, chipped holes in it. Seals are shot and one of the bearings fell out.

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recently replaced the dried out valve cover gaskets that were leaking like crazy on my ea82. Also had a buddy tint the windows! (not pictured)

 

currently in the process of rebuilding the hitachi carb.

 

Your Suby reminds me of my first wagon. An '86 GL:

 

6870498000_a2258ab945.jpg

 

That I just could not seem to keep out of the dirt. ;)

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Noticed a noise a couple days ago when I started the car. Didn't think much of it. Yesterday morning, the noise got kinda worse, but I still drove to work. After I got off of work, I decided to see what the issue was. Opened the hood and started the engine. Clutch fan was wobbling about so much, it looked like it was gonna break. I shut it off, and noticed my water pump pulley was loose. Great... Wasn't too bad, so I started driving (trying to keep RPMs below 3K), but the noise kept getting worse. Eventually steam started coming out of my engine bay, temp gauge went up, etc. Pulled into the O'Reilly parking lot, only to find the engine bay covered in coolant.

 

The water pump pulley was at like a 30 degree angle, pointing up. No way I could drive home now. Went into the O'Reilly and bought a new pump, gasket, o-ring, coolant, and sealant. Luckily they had it all in stock! With no other choice, I replaced the water pump in the parking lot. I don't have A/C, P/S, or timing belt covers, so it wasn't a daunting task. Took me about 1.5 hours (I love EA82s!!!). The guy next to me took about the same amount of time to change a light bulb on his Mercedes. :banana:

 

Repair was successful, and it wasn't leaking. Was running hot on the way home, but I bled out the cooling system again and it's running cool again. I've had bad luck with O'Reilly water pumps, but hopefully this one will last. I didn't really have a choice to order a Japanese made pump.

 

All in all, not bad for a roadside repair. Guys at O'Reilly were cool with it. Luckily all my coolant had expelled itself on the road, so I didn't have a mess to clean up. :brow: My old pump is absolute trash. The fins had damaged the pump, scraped metal, chipped holes in it. Seals are shot and one of the bearings fell out.

you my friend, are the bane of waterpumps

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I had the honor of getting to fix a stuck front caliper today on my 87 gl, in the parking lot at school, in dress clothes.  Just temp fixed it by wacking it with a hammer and getting some grease in there.  Not bad considering I only had my aviation tool with me and nothing in metric sizes.

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I had the honor of getting to fix a stuck front caliper today on my 87 gl, in the parking lot at school, in dress clothes. Just temp fixed it by wacking it with a hammer and getting some grease in there. Not bad considering I only had my aviation tool with me and nothing in metric sizes.

Now a picture of that would be awesome! Dress clothes beating on a subaru haha typical subaru guy.

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