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What Have You Done to your Soobie lately? (Please post in here and keep it going)


Ricearu
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I reassembled my FT4WD 5 speed turbo transmission with 23 spline stubs to replace the 25 spline stubs so I can put it in my Brat without making hybrid axles.  It's got new seals all around and everything went back together correctly.  It has been a long process, but now I'm ready to move on to prepping the EJ22 that is sitting in the bed of my Brat.  Feels good!

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yesterday i patted my loyale(my avatar pic). its been who knows how long since i took it apart. I believe I now have all the parts needed to get it to wcss in reasonable condition. we're going spfi ea81 and 3 ish inch lift...i have crap laying around. ill come ready to break most thing on it and have parts to back it up as i dont have any other gen3 cars needing parts any time soon

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I repaired/replaced the rear rotor, pads and parking brakes on my 1998 Legacy Outback. I forgot how much I hate drum brake hardware. The calipers were kind of stuck in place, too. Now the braking force is noticeably better with the caliper actually floating.

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Just used an aftermarket central locking kit, same as this one http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/other-accessories/auction-713436763.htm

gives me remote lock/unlock as well but no remote start.

all wiring for it (central unit to actuators already has connectors) just had to hook up constant 12+ and ground.

 

I didn't use the mounting tabs that they supply, just tried to find the best spot for the actuators to push/pull the lock and where i could just drill through the door to hold them there, once i had the actuator somewhere i thought it would work i bent the supplied rod so that it would move the door lock, i decided to move off of a short vertical rod close to the outer edge of the door instead of the more horizontal long rod since i couldn't see how i would mount it to move the longer rod. I drilled a hole low down in the door and right where the wiring access panel is? near the front doors to run the wires, ran the wires across behind the dash to passenger door, pulled the carpet up down the edge to run the wires to the rear drivers side then the carpet to just behind front seats to run the wires across to the rear passenger side, was just enough stock wire to make the rear doors.

 

I think the rear doors were probably the worst, but that might of just been me, front passenger was the easier and then probably running the wires was the easiest part. The kit also comes with connecters to flash indicators, fake flashing alarm light, a window rising output and a spare +ve trigger and a spare -ve trigger. I haven't hooked up the indicators yet and may not unsure yet. Mounted the blue flashing led in the dash next to the electric mirror controls.And when  i say it was frustrating that was mostly due to me starting this at about 7pm both nights so i was still going when it was dark outside using a couple of lights.

 

If anyone wants pictures im happy to get a few of how the actuators are mounted, keep in mind how i've done any of this may not be the best way

 

Tom.

 

I take it your doors did not have the master lock/unlock then? I only put one of those actuators in the driver side because it is a master. All the other doors are lock/unlocked by action of the driver side.  As far as indicators, I just flash the lights n mine. I don't like the horn chirp so I left it off. Mine only flashes the lights when I use the remote to lock or unlock.

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As you know, I ran these on my Loyale. These bulbs do not last long. I drive with my headlights on all the time, but these don't last long. I have since switched to Sylvania Silver Star Ultras, whatever the $55/pair bulbs are at O'Reilly. They have AMAZING night performance and have been going strong since October 2013.

 

Yeah I know. You were the one that recommended them to me. Oh well they were cheap enough. They do seem rather dim though compared to the Sylvanias (regular, not SS) that I had on there. I did keep the previous bulbs so I can switch back. I have read that the Sylvania Silver Stars do not last as long as regular bulbs though.

Edited by MR_Loyale
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I take it your doors did not have the master lock/unlock then? I only put one of those actuators in the driver side because it is a master. All the other doors are lock/unlocked by action of the driver side.  As far as indicators, I just flash the lights n mine. I don't like the horn chirp so I left it off. Mine only flashes the lights when I use the remote to lock or unlock.

It has one master actuator that if it is locked/unlocked manually it locks/unlocks the rest, installed on the drivers door. The rest of the actuators just have 2 wires and lock/unlock when the drivers door does, or when i use the remote key.

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well after 10 hrs in the garage and at the parts store i completed a couple things.

 

new front cv, new rear struts out of a 4runner(thanks for the idea jezzek)

 

new u joint and put the old diff back in and took the oncewelded one out..

 

then i discovered the inner doj on a rear cv had exploded.. the cup turns without the axle..

 

it never ends :D

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Since I have to wait for Safelite (six frikking days from when I called...) to come out and re-seal their windshield, why not finish COMPLETELY gutting the car? Or close anyhow. Went ahead this morning and pulled the headliner out. PO's pitbull puppy gouged the crap out of that too, so may as well recover it while I'm balls deep into an interior makeover.

 

 

On the headliner, I'm thinking.....Mexican blanket colors    :lol:  :P  :drunk:

Edited by SmashedGlass
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just changed intake air filter, oil and filter, and new trans oil in the WRX. cleaned batt terminals and checked fluids. Inspected brake pad thickness, Think I'll put a new set on all-around in October. Need to change the cabin filter and have Discount Tires rotate and balance the wheels.

 

should be good for the summer after this!

 

also, need to do some of the above on the Outback.

Edited by 1 Lucky Texan
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Welp, put a down payment on an 86 GL-10. Needs some love (paint, dings), but rust free, PT4WD, LSD. and had extra doors, grille, wheels and a complete 89 EA82T/FT4EAT drivetrain (from intake to all 4 hubs/subframes/diff ect) :banana:

 

Going to pick it up sometime in the next week or so.

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today ditributor cap and rotor cleaned it pulled the front end apart...-.- found out my head light mounts are different so i gotta try and locate one but theres nothing here in el paso so i gotta talk to a friend back home did some minor body work still have more to do its gunna be a fun project really wanna put a weber on my EA82 but its expensive so down the road this car is my fre time project when im not out being a Military Police officer haha :lol:

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well after 10 hrs in the garage and at the parts store i completed a couple things.

 

new front cv, new rear struts out of a 4runner(thanks for the idea jezzek)

 

new u joint and put the old diff back in and took the oncewelded one out..

 

then i discovered the inner doj on a rear cv had exploded.. the cup turns without the axle..

 

it never ends :D

 

 

well i put a new axle in and it works great. a little too great actually, it broke the new u joint i put in last night.. twisted it right apart.

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On the headliner, I'm thinking.....Mexican blanket colors    :lol:  :P  :drunk:

 

 

How about this...

 

http://worthfabrics.com/faux_leather_fabric.asp

 

Actually, maybe this...

 

http://worthfabrics.com/item.asp?cID=0&PID=2157

 

Or go all Western with...

 

http://worthfabrics.com/item.asp?cID=0&PID=35

 

On Safari...?

 

http://worthfabrics.com/item.asp?cID=0&PID=267

 

The possibilities are endless.

(and unsettling at times)

Edited by Tsuru
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Haha Tsuru, funny thing is a leopard theme is a strong contender for the headliner as I was thinking of getting a high(er) quality seat cover set in leopard print.

But I did find this "Calaveres Alegres" print fabric that I can't seem to get out of my head now:

 

7810c.JPG

Edited by SmashedGlass
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Well, Safelite wouldn't touch it, claimed "it's not a fault with our installation". I call bullshit. I took my Dremel to the rust pinhole from underneath through the fresh air intake, and in all of about .5 seconds had a nice hole clean through the metal about the size of this--> O. Could touch the glass with a pin through it, but there was no adhesive in that spot, just a nice void in it of unknown size. My theory is sloppy un-thorough application of the adhesive lead to moisture getting to that void and pinholing the metal. Currently have some 'quick setting' (ha! four hours ain't quick to me, with another storm on the way in....) JB Weld in the hole, finished grinding all the rust I could reach on the outside drip tray/windshield channel, and coated that with some epoxy paint. We'll see if it stops the leaking, and if so whether or not it lasts........

 

.....if not, I'll be selling off the otherwise good wagon :(

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so i just went to orielly put on hold or ordered for tomorrow a thrush glass pack, KN oil filter, E3.46 Plugs, Mr Gasket air cleaner, B&M t handle shift knob, MSD coil, battery, fuel filter, brake pads, CV boots and im off to walmart to get oil, brake fluid, and some terminal connectors and will prolly be ordering a weber kit this week im like a little kid with how excited i am  :)  :banana:

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