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What Have You Done to your Soobie lately? (Please post in here and keep it going)


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Les schwab no good?

Tires are good, depending on brand of course, but the guy probably paid out the nose for them. If he gave you the receipts with them, you can go to an Les Schwab and they'll rotate them and do free flat repairs. But otherwise the place is a massive money sucking hole.

 

Twitch

 

PS: For example, they have a separate charge for mounting and balancing. It's like $12 to mount and $8 to balance a tire. Last time I had them put on a set of tires I walked out with over an $80 bill for 4 tires, mounted and balanced.

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Brat is STILL in the shop !!! - AAARRRRGGGHHH !!!

 

What have I done with my Soobie? - Nothing... Not even driving it, (snif)

My Brat is STILL in the shop, now for over a week. Can't blame the mechanic though...

He had it together, but when put into gear it would go nowhere, 4WD would not work, nothing.

Turns out that someone replaced the tranny, he says with an older one (How much older could it be in a 1983?  - Its not a 1st gen tranny, that's for sure... )

Anyway, the mechanic said that the fork that the clutch cable operates to engage and disengage the clutch was the wrong one.

He had to order one from back east and it will not be here until Monday, and I'm guessing that the Brat will not be ready until Tuesday at least. I really miss my brat. I've been having to drive my 1 Ton super cargo Van with a 400 engine and a carb that suck gas like a (CENSORED) and take the bus to work (Argh) - that is until they layed a bunch of us off, after I had already ordered half of what I needed for the new Motorcycle/Side pipes exhaust system, so Christmas is pretty well screwed under for me really well.  I guess I can have fun with my Brat for Christmas, as it should be done well before then, and on Christmas the streets have very little traffic. - Of course, that would also mean that the police would have an easy time seeing me at a distance, being one of the few cars on the road,  if I were to have too much fun, lol...

 

If the weather clears up and stops this constant on-and-off RAIN for a while,I might actually be able to get some work done on my Brat !

Edited by Subaruist
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replaced left front axle, right lower balljoint, and new timing belt kit.

Got towed for the first time in my ownership after that timing belt jumped due to seized pulley. Hated to see it hooked up to the tow truck. OH YEAH, retarded the timing from full advance and it runs much better with an increase in MPG.

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Tires are good, depending on brand of course, but the guy probably paid out the nose for them. If he gave you the receipts with them, you can go to an Les Schwab and they'll rotate them and do free flat repairs. But otherwise the place is a massive money sucking hole.

 

Twitch

 

PS: For example, they have a separate charge for mounting and balancing. It's like $12 to mount and $8 to balance a tire. Last time I had them put on a set of tires I walked out with over an $80 bill for 4 tires, mounted and balanced.

It's worse than that its about $30 now to dismount the tire, mount the tire, and balance it. So it's about $120 without buying any tires. That's why my dad bought a coats 20/20 tire changer and a balancer. They paid for them selves in the first 4 sets we did.

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Got fed up with the clock in my '87 not keeping time.   I removed the Zener regulator and replaced it with a switch mode power supply.  The dropping resistor normally dissipates about 1watt when the car is on.  It runs so hot the solder eventually fails.

 

I also added a diode and a capacitor to the always hot "keep alive" feed, so it won't forget the time when I use the starter, or disconnect the battery for a short time.

 

Now I just have to do the one in my '93.

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Got fed up with the clock in my '87 not keeping time.   I removed the Zener regulator and replaced it with a switch mode power supply.  The dropping resistor normally dissipates about 1watt when the car is on.  It runs so hot the solder eventually fails.

 

I also added a diode and a capacitor to the always hot "keep alive" feed, so it won't forget the time when I use the starter, or disconnect the battery for a short time.

 

Now I just have to do the one in my '93.

 

That would be a great writeup and cool pics too. just sayin.

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It's worse than that its about $30 now to dismount the tire, mount the tire, and balance it. So it's about $120 without buying any tires. That's why my dad bought a coats 20/20 tire changer and a balancer. They paid for them selves in the first 4 sets we did.

 

Heck I was just still bitter about how they messed up the CV axle replacement in UNO. That is when I took them off my list. The sad thing is that back in the day, they used to be a really great go to place. Then Les Schwab (founder) dies, and as the original franchisee owners died off the places became "employee owned" and that is (for me anyway) when they went to hell.

 

I still remember "Free Beef" days at Les Scwab.

 

beef.jpg

Edited by MR_Loyale
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It's man beef not cow beef. Be careful what you wish for!

 

:o  :eek:

 


 

What Have I Done to my Soobie lately?

 

I've fixing a small hit given to the rear passenger door,

 

of my beloved Subaru "BumbleBeast" and re-painting that door.

 

The one who hit it, gave me another used door from a Junk Yard,

 

and it has a smaller Glass, as you can see here:

 

~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/150872-different-glass-sizes-%E2%96%BA-ea82-rear-passengers-doors/

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DSC06032_zps5bb48dea.jpg

 

fitted up two sets of these robust, dead-lockable door locks to both my Gen2 Brumbys. It would have been more convenient if they were coded the same :)  The GEN2 door locks require the flat , dog bone shaped latch lever #3 to work correctly. The dead lock function does not quite reach the 90 degree position, so the keys need to be made like the emergency key included among the four keys and key fob in the kit

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Got fed up with the clock in my '87 not keeping time.   I removed the Zener regulator and replaced it with a switch mode power supply.  The dropping resistor normally dissipates about 1watt when the car is on.  It runs so hot the solder eventually fails.

 

I also added a diode and a capacitor to the always hot "keep alive" feed, so it won't forget the time when I use the starter, or disconnect the battery for a short time.

 

Now I just have to do the one in my '93.

 

I should probably do that some day before mine fails, what IC did you use for the power supply?

I think I have a box of LT1533 switch mode ICs on my desk. They have a max of something like 1 amp, should be enough for a clock!

 

My GL's clock keeps great time. The clock in the gauge cluster of my outback, however.... Stupid thing gains almost a minute a day. It's pathetic.

Edited by 987687
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I GOT MY BRAT BACK ! - I GOT MY BRAT BACK !

Got it out of the shop finally, and the clutch is working great!

Working so great, in fact, that when I picked it up, I popped the clutch on two occasions by accident, lol

 

The best news yet is that I owed the mechanic $700.00 for wheel bearings and clutch job, plus ONLY $25.00 for extra parts that were bad. ( $725.00)- Then he only asked me for $700 even! I think the guy had to take it out and put it back in at least twice if not three times, He had to order one part from back east, - that was the main delay, and spend extra hours fooling with it, and trying to figure out what the real problem was (I posted about that previously).

 

Almost got my rims sand-blasted yesterday, but it ended up that they will let me do it myself, as they are too busy, and although I  hoped to do it today, there was too much rain today. I would have done it in the rain ( had to be done outside ), but if I sand-blast anyway, and the rims get and stay wet, the rust will start coming back. I don't want to have to use rustoleum, I am already putting 2 or 3 different coats of things.

 

Then, disaster struck when I went to pick up the Krylon X metals BLUE paint, which the salesman a few weeks ago said was very popular, is n longer on the shelves, and I can't seem to finsd it anywhere! I so hate when this happens. I work in advance to maker sure of what I need, where it is, how much it costs, and when time comes to buy iit they have already discontinued it for some damnned reason.  This was supposedto be really good stuff, and had a great look, so what the hell?

Now I am desparately looking for the last of the stuff, to possibly horde it, and wondering if I should bother.

I chose to make competent use of spray paint, instead of geting all the stuff I would need to do my own mix with a pneumatic paint gun, so that if I had to do any repairs or changes or additions, I would have the best chance possible to match the color best.

 

So now maybe I should get the "Shimmer" metal flake in a can? I really wanted that super metallic X-Metals paint.

At first clear weatherI plan to do the sand-blasting...

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 What Have I Done to my Soobie lately?

 

I've fixing a small hit given to the rear passenger door,

 

of my beloved Subaru "BumbleBeast" and re-painting that door.

 

The one who hit it, gave me another used door from a Junk Yard,

 

and it has a smaller Glass, as you can see here:

 

~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/150872-different-glass-sizes-%E2%96%BA-ea82-rear-passengers-doors/

 

After all the paintings were done...

 

PaintedDoor.jpg

 

 

...I finished the Reassembly and Reinstall yesterday...

 

RepairedDoor.jpg

 

...on Christmas eve:D 

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what IC did you use for the power supply?

I think I have a box of LT1533 switch mode ICs on my desk. They have a max of something like 1 amp, should be enough for a clock!

 

 

The regulator I used is an LM22674MRE-5.0NOPB   Because I had some surplus scrap from the place I work, with these built on board.  The actual clock has the main power at 4.5V  so I put a diode in line with the output to drop the 5.0V down a little.  The clock main current is a little over 100mA.  A switcher that can deliver 150mA to 500mA should be workable.  Too light of a load tends to make them unstable.  And the one I used fit inside the existing clock case.

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The regulator I used is an LM22674MRE-5.0NOPB   Because I had some surplus scrap from the place I work, with these built on board.  The actual clock has the main power at 4.5V  so I put a diode in line with the output to drop the 5.0V down a little.  The clock main current is a little over 100mA.  A switcher that can deliver 150mA to 500mA should be workable.  Too light of a load tends to make them unstable.  And the one I used fit inside the existing clock case.

 

That works, it's the kind of repair you just grab whatever is close and throw it in there... That's how I fix most stuff, though 

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