Sapper 157 Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 Deleted Anti-Backfiring Valve (AAV) system, new fuel pump, new rear fuel filter, new PCV valve, new EGR valve, replaced most of the vacuum and breather hoses, resealed battery terminals, and added an EA82 overflow tank. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coxy Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 (edited) Well I haven't done much except collect parts, But if you have never heard of the late Professor Gordon P Blair then look up Blair and Associates and download some very good technical articles well worth reading from the main page links. This man was a genius in both two stroke and four stroke race engines and many of the theories and principles that applied to any engine make if more powerful and efficient,He was the man in charge at Queens University Belfast in the Engineering Faculty and his following poem may just give a hint of his abilities. http://www.profblairandassociates.com/ *********************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************** ''The Last Mulled Toast A Grand Prix race is very rough, the going's fast, the pace is tough. The four-stroke rules the world of cars, in bikes it´s the two-strokes that are the stars. Now, why is this you´d have to ask? The rulemakers you can take the task. For the intake air never needs to question, "Is this the right bellmouth for my ingestion?" The designer of both must surely know, or else his engines will all be slow, unsteady gas dynamic trapping by right and left waves overlapping. To model an engine is algebraic simple. You sit on the gas like a veritable pimple, solving the maths the waves to track from valve to bellmouth in the intake stack. At the inlet valve you scan induction, count the air that´s passed by suction and just as the valve would shut the door, you get a wave to ram home more. In the exhaust it´s furnace hot, for the modeller ´tis a tropic spot. Exhaust waves reflect but do the job of sucking out the burned gas slob. Some time ago I wrote two tomes on two-strokes, including poems. It seemed only fair to tell those with cars that black-art tuning is best kept for bars. This book informs the four-stroke tuner what I wish I knew decades sooner, as Brian Steenson followed Agostini with my exhaust on Mick Mooney´s Seeley. The pen´s both strokes have now been told. My writ is run, I´m pensioned old. While I may be ancient and time is shrinking, only Dei voluntas can stop me thinking.'' SIR Gordon Blair, 1 November 1998 Edited April 14, 2015 by coxy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnatchedHatch Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 (edited) I swapped out my decrepit struts and noisey front endlinks with a WRX set from a 2004 with 75k. Just have my drums to service this weekend, and short of a better radio, my car is good. It's a nice feeling to just be satisfied with your car, not worrying about anything neglected or needing to be done. Ehem.. that bearing will call to me eventually. Pics: Edited April 24, 2015 by SnatchedHatch 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe5 Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 did wheel bearings and axle swap on the loyale. Getting faster every time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR_Loyale Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 ► The Shifter really Feels more Solid and Rigid, but nothing exaggerated. ► Beside the normal "Feeling" of the Shifter going into a Gear, Now you can Hear a small muted sound on the Floor, along that feeling. ► Engine's vibrations now are sent in a certain small amount, to all the Floor, without the Rubber Cube, but the Shifter's Vibrations are the Same as Before. So the Rubber Cube was for isolating the Drivetrain from the Body, not for the Shifter itself. Those three are the only changes I could notice so far. Kind Regards. Might ask this mechanic what he thinks because he fixed this same thing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwoZ4KRkmnA&feature=iv&src_vid=zLEudwDEY-c&annotation_id=annotation_1047107659 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmoss5723 Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 Replaced the headlights on my BRAT. I bought very nice halogen replacements for all 4 lights on a closeout a year or so ago and put them on the shelf. I needed to fix some non-functioning adjusters so that I could get my headlights to point the right way, so I figured I might as well put the new lights in while I had it all apart. After replacing the lights and setting all of the adjustments right, I drove away and found my lights were pointing too high! Apparently I wasn't sitting level when I adjusted them, or something. I'll retry another night. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 Might ask this mechanic what he thinks because he fixed this same thing... Thank you for that Video's link. I repaired it somehow, some days ago... Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 Replaced the headlights on my BRAT. I bought very nice halogen replacements for all 4 lights on a closeout a year or so ago and put them on the shelf. I needed to fix some non-functioning adjusters so that I could get my headlights to point the right way, so I figured I might as well put the new lights in while I had it all apart. After replacing the lights and setting all of the adjustments right, I drove away and found my lights were pointing too high! Apparently I wasn't sitting level when I adjusted them, or something. I'll retry another night. Pointing too high or are all 4 on highbeam while on low beam switch position ?And no low beam lighting at all, as in all four light up same between hi and lo ? I found my quad lights did this when I bought it as the inner high beam units were quartz halogen with replaceable bulbs with metal brackets for bulb to go in causing the arth switching of the lights to activate high beam as soon as low was switched on. Only fixed it with QH sealed beam units after testing combo switch and going bonkers ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmoss5723 Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 Pointing too high or are all 4 on highbeam while on low beam switch position ?And no low beam lighting at all, as in all four light up same between hi and lo ? I found my quad lights did this when I bought it as the inner high beam units were quartz halogen with replaceable bulbs with metal brackets for bulb to go in causing the arth switching of the lights to activate high beam as soon as low was switched on. Only fixed it with QH sealed beam units after testing combo switch and going bonkers ! They're just aimed too high. I need to line up on a wall again and re-aim them lower. As far as which lights come on when, my outer lights come on for low beams and all 4 come on for high beams. But I've been wondering what the stock configuration is. Should it be low=outer and high=inner, or high=all 4? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonas Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 Low=outer, High=all four. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEECHBM69 Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 Just did the dual electric fan conversion on my wagon following Jeszek's write up here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/125754-easy-guide-on-five-steps-to-twin-electric-fans-swap/ Works flawlessly, as advertised :-) (Thank you J!) Now to figure out why my hatch quit idling (removed the anti diesel solenoid last time.) The struggle continues.........lol Dan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 Just did the dual electric fan conversion on my wagon following Jeszek's write up here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/125754-easy-guide-on-five-steps-to-twin-electric-fans-swap/ Works flawlessly, as advertised :-) (Thank you J!) ... You're Welcome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zombieblues Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 I just replaced the oil pan gasket and changed the oil!! I also installed a push button start and ignition switch!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooner Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 Came home from work and removed the 5 speed dual range from the 88 parts gl wagon, the only reason I bought the car was to have this tranny as a back up so into the shed it goes and the car goes to the junker. Really glad I got that done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmoss5723 Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 Came home from work and removed the 5 speed dual range from the 88 parts gl wagon, the only reason I bought the car was to have this tranny as a back up so into the shed it goes and the car goes to the junker. Really glad I got that done! If you just want to keep that tranny as a spare, is there any chance you'd want to sell the shift linkages? I got a D/R 5spd for the Ski Wagon Project, but it came with no linkages. If you'd consider selling those parts, shoot me a PM. It would help me immensely. I really need to get the bad tranny swapped out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooner Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 Jmoss that might be a plan bud! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnatchedHatch Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 After putting WRX struts into my Wagon, I ran into a problem with the rear strut tower reverse-cone shape not centering in the designated chassis hole, as due to my make-shift changes in the bolt-up design, it was no longer a match. This prevented the (rear) strut from fully seating, which caused a minor side-affect, no saggy butt syndrome, but it also created positive camber (bottom of tire moved inwards = posi?). This was a huge problem as it affected the handling so, that I did not have much confidence in taking twisteys. I would have realized this if I properly prepared for the project, tutorials already describe this issue. I settled on some saggy butt spacers from Paranoid Fabrications for the 02-07 impreza top mounts I'm using, they took about two days to ship!! And, per their contact page, you can reach them on FaceBook and they did promptly reply. I threw them on and used some silicone grease between the spacers and top hats to prevent any unwanted noise. Worked like a charm! Rear sits higher now, the tires are stanced properly, and honestly I have a decent amount of clearance back there now. I'm about to measure my diff clearance and post later. HANDLING IS SOO MUCH BETTER now I'm working on getting some discounts for y'all... CHA-CHING PM me for a 10% discount for your spacer needs! http://www.paranoidfabrications.com/ Here's some pics of how it went: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zombieblues Posted April 27, 2015 Share Posted April 27, 2015 Just took the 83 wagon up the poudre canyon to Pingree park! This thing is amazing on the curves going up a mountain. Almost had me scared! When do these things start to let go around a corner? I did 50 around a full corner and didnt even squeel (at least from what I can hear over the exhaust) I am starting my weight reduction today along with starting the roll cage! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted April 27, 2015 Share Posted April 27, 2015 best to find yourself safe 'skid pads' (asphalt, concrete, gravel,dirt) and practice first - try to feel and listen what the car is like before things get squirrelly. Sometimes the front will plow before you fishtail - etc. If you ever switch tire model, do the tests again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zombieblues Posted April 27, 2015 Share Posted April 27, 2015 Oh! A Texan! Anywhere near east Texas? I will be doing some mudding events down there once I get this thing going! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comatosellama Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 I don't felt this "Made in Honduras" part to be Expensive, if you consider that it is around twice as thick and strong than the original part, plus made of great quality, industrial strength Aluminium, it doesn't corrode; so it will outlast the whole car for sure. The engineer who did that part, only asked around the Equivalent to $ 30.ºº US Dollars, in our local currency, the "Lempíra" How much does cost a similar part made like that, in USA? Kind Regards. Lempira sounds so much cooler than dollar 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 (edited) Lempira sounds so much cooler than dollar Ha, Ha... Lempíra sir, was a chieftain Warrior of the Lenca ethnic group, relatives of Hondurans Mayas. He fought against the Spanish invaders and was treacherously killed at the top of a hill, so Lempira is a national grandee of Honduras. More info & images, here: ~► Wikipedia: Lempira Sorry for the offtopicness... What have I done to my Subie, Lately? Driving, pouring Gasoline and Continue Driving ... ... And Gathering parts to install the 15" aluminium Wheels, such like New Studs, Full Metal valves, etc... Kind Regards. ► Edited to Fix the Web Link. Edited April 29, 2015 by Loyale 2.7 Turbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 More like "What did I do "FOR" my Subaru. Went and got a credit line for $2,000.00. Ordered enough parts/pieces to do a total rebuild of an engine, minus what shop work will cost for things I can't do here myself. This had better get the '88 Wagon back to a daily driver status. Sssshhhhh..... Don't let the Wife know I did this. I won't see my next birthday. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comatosellama Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 (edited) Made my new bumper, painted and on (no pics, broke my phone in the process). Stripped some crap out of the engine bay. Set the fuel pump up with a key, weberized :grin: Header is coming tommorow, and once I get a new throttle cable, I'll just need to weld the rear bumper mounts back on, and make that bumper, and then we'll be in business Edited April 29, 2015 by comatosellama Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comatosellama Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 My bumper, took the directions from subarubrat.com , credit where credit is due. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B44JjK5C_rtDaldmVW1fZWxQX1VtRElBMzk5WldRN0h1Tk9n/view?usp=sharing And my quad fits!! (yours truly in the photo) https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B44JjK5C_rtDQzhwQ0QzTzYzMFdOZzZYaWRESDN1NTB6U05N/view?usp=sharing Although it is a little saggy... Weighs less than 500lbs, didn't think it would be too much for her. I'm hoping to be able to roadtrip them together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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