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What Have You Done to your Soobie lately? (Please post in here and keep it going)


Ricearu
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Ghetto Fix, Catalytic Converter Flange:

The original gasket material between the flanges disintegrated, the spring loaded bolts are so rusted they'd need cutting and more work/ time than I wanted to deal with.

I had some woodstove rope gasket laying around, wrapped and pushed it into the void between the flanges, and then hose clamped it. This worked a few days until the flange nearest the converter developed a crack. I lathered the open crack with J-Weld (600 dgree, not J-Weld Kwick), wasn't confident that was going to survive so I wrapped and pushed some more woodstove rope into the un-set J-Weld, then lathered the rope and let it sit overnight.

She's running smooth, efficient, and as quiet as if I'd cut, re welded new pipe sections or went for aftermarket flanges. I may be on borrowed time but if it fails soon I'll let you know. I'm excited (it doesn't take much) about the combo of rope and J-Weld though for difficult areas to seal like this one.

 

CIMG2539.jpg

 

 

 

that rusted nut/screw in the foreground is welded onto the top of the converter , seems like a hanger bolt?

Anyway, thought I'd give back a little..

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Reassembled the engine for my sister's suby yesterday and reinstalled it into the car. Idles smoothly and good power, but the TOD is quite noisy. Then TOD was drowned in this awful racket - one of the cooling fans died. Oh the noise when the bearings die in a electric motor!

So, what was supposed to be a simple CAM and carb swap, turned into a tear down to the short block due to an intermittent sticking valve, HLA replacement, and fan replacement. :-\

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I have a CEL for evap and EGR. Dunno if the evap works, but the EGR does work. It opens and closes... That's about all it's supposed to do. Car runs just fine though. My CEL is also on for about 5 other reasons, I fixed it with electrical tape :grin:

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Read my Engine code on the SPFI EA82. Its a 34 (EGR Valve Control)

 

How do I fix this? My car runs just fine, so I don't think the EGR is messed up. From what I remember, the EGR kicks in after 1100rpm.

 

So what is my next step?

 

 

SPFI codes for EGR and Purge are because it is getting a funny reaction to the solenoids. Most likely the solenoids shorted out and the computer does not know if they are working or not.

I had the code for the purge solenoid - checked the impedance of the solenoid: open circuit. Inserted a 1/2 Watt resistor (picked a resistor size roughly in the middle of the specs of the solenoid impedance range) in the connector on the harness, bypassed, and removed the solenoid. Voila! Computer happy and besides taking 2 tries instead of 1 to start in the morning, drive ability unchanged.

I am not sure of running with the EGR enabled all the time would effect drive ability or not. Might cause it to run too lean till it warms up. Only way to find out is try it.:)

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I replaced the rear subframe in my xt6. I had it at an alignment shop last week and it had rear negative toe and camber issues that couldnt be adjusted. Im running 60 series studded tires and when i hit ice it does crazy things. Hopefully the donor subframe is in better shape, well see as its going back to finish up the alignment next week.

 

100_0566.jpg

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Props on having the motivation doing that in the rain. I hate tearing into Suspension in the rain (Been there, Done it)

 

Whats the story on that EA82 wagon?

Thanks, wrenching in 2 layers of clothes soaking wet...sweet!

I have a thread on it here

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=112285

Edited by T'subaru
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SPFI codes for EGR and Purge are because it is getting a funny reaction to the solenoids. Most likely the solenoids shorted out and the computer does not know if they are working or not.

I had the code for the purge solenoid - checked the impedance of the solenoid: open circuit. Inserted a 1/2 Watt resistor (picked a resistor size roughly in the middle of the specs of the solenoid impedance range) in the connector on the harness, bypassed, and removed the solenoid. Voila! Computer happy and besides taking 2 tries instead of 1 to start in the morning, drive ability unchanged.

I am not sure of running with the EGR enabled all the time would effect drive ability or not. Might cause it to run too lean till it warms up. Only way to find out is try it.:)

 

Full time open EGR WILL cause a lean out and will kill it at idle. I used to love doing the EGR test at school with scantool on our gm and ford cars at LTI, while other people were checking sensors or 02's with a labscope. that was funny, why did the car die lol. all while I was sitting in the passenger seat with a snap-on solus scanner:lol::lol:

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Were the nasioc guys respectful?

 

never had a good relationship with those guys.

 

SJ

 

I Remember that they Called us: "the USMB Refugees" when our Website went offline in 2008 and some of us started postin' there...

I Changed the 8 Front Bolts from my EA82 Wagon, the ones that Holds the Rims... The Old ones were worn.

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The 3 that showed up were decent, I have meet up with two of them other times. But I do know what you are talking, some NASIOC guys are just douches. Talk about Turbos and deep dish wheels all day :rolleyes:

 

I schooled a couple of those guys on subaru history at a hobby lobby meet one day, it wasn't nasioc but those guys were nasioc douches that my impreza owning friend knew. They tried to tell me my car was "awd". They also didn't know what a EA82 was. Hell, the EVO GUYS knew more about my car. Thats just sad. Not everyone who owns a wrx is a douche, but there tend to be alot of them, especially in NORTH RICHLAND HILLS, TX. They always do a double take when they hear my unmistakeable subaru exhaust note though!:lol:

 

They look for a wrx, and all they see is a crappy digi camo'd wagon lol

Edited by Ricearu
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