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What Have You Done to your Soobie lately? (Please post in here and keep it going)


Ricearu
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Ran a direct cable from the stock alternator to the battery positive via a 100 A mini ANL today. Used 8 gauge Streetwires cable that I was hoarding from several years ago. The other components were from Amazon:

 

http://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-MANL100-Mini-Fuses/dp/B0047XW8YW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1335752859&sr=8-1

 

http://www.amazon.com/DB-Link-MANLFH1-Mini-Holder/dp/B001NCDARY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1335752859&sr=8-3

 

I believe the AC blower works better. However, no effect on the dash voltmeter, it still reads low. Also, just noticed that all the lights (dash, headlamps, tail lamps, fog lamps) were flickering at idle, and even at 1800 to 2000 rpm. I believe I have a bum AZ alternator (bought several years ago). Will have to start reading up on the Maxima swap now.

 

One clarification, prior to running the cable directly to the battery, I had never noted the flicker.

Edited by aba4430
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Replaced the oil pump... and snapped a bolt. My heart skipped a beat, but luckily it was easy to remove the pieces. Quick run to the HW store to grab some new 8.9 grade bolts, and the new pump slid right in.

 

But then... didn't realize you have to prime an oil pump (nothing in the Haynes or FSM :rolleyes:) Figured it out real quick (under 30 seconds) when I started the car and the oil pressure sat at zero. Pulled the pump, filled the new filter with oil, made an oil bath and submerged the pump, primed it, and then reinstalled it all.

 

Not a fun work day. Too much stress.

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Ran a direct cable from the stock alternator to the battery positive via a 100 A mini ANL today. Used 8 gauge Streetwires cable that I was hoarding from several years ago. The other components were from Amazon:

 

http://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-MANL100-Mini-Fuses/dp/B0047XW8YW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1335752859&sr=8-1

 

http://www.amazon.com/DB-Link-MANLFH1-Mini-Holder/dp/B001NCDARY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1335752859&sr=8-3

 

I believe the AC blower works better. However, no effect on the dash voltmeter, it still reads low. Also, just noticed that all the lights (dash, headlamps, tail lamps, fog lamps) were flickering at idle, and even at 1800 to 2000 rpm. I believe I have a bum AZ alternator (bought several years ago). Will have to start reading up on the Maxima swap now.

 

One clarification, prior to running the cable directly to the battery, I had never noted the flicker.

 

 

 

Have you taken a meter and actually tested the voltage? Going by a dash gauge isn't the best way to diagnose an electrical problem.

You need to take a multimeter and check at the battery and at the alt. Check for line loss between the two. And check the charge control circuit. There's a signal wire, if it's corroded the alt can put out too low voltage.

 

Before you blindly go swapping to a new alternator, rule out wiring as the problem. For all you know, you'll get the new one in there with the same issue.

 

Also, don't use a fuse rated significantly higher than the expected load.

The stock unit is 60amp. It will likely melt and catch one fire before it blows a 100a fuse, especially if it is getting a little bit tired.

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......Also, don't use a fuse rated significantly higher than the expected load.

The stock unit is 60amp. It will likely melt and catch one fire before it blows a 100a fuse, especially if it is getting a little bit tired.

 

Now, I have not done anything to the stock wiring. The stock cable from the positive of the alt. to the battery via the stock fusible link was not touched. Is this a bad idea, i.e. running a wire directly to the battery positive, while leaving the stock wiring intact? I am not sure this is a problem. I will do detailed voltage checks next weekend.

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That's kind of mickey mouse, but my point remains. You have a fuse on a wire that's rated higher than the expected load. If that wire shorts out, the fuse may not blow. I don't care about the other one, at this point it's irrelevant. You technically shouldn't do that anyway.

 

What I'm saying is, the stock wiring is supposed to work just fine for a car in stock electrical configuration. Yours apparently isn't, so there's something wrong somewhere.

Before you go blindly throwing parts at the problem to try and fix it, figure out what the problem is in the first place. Throwing parts at a situation when you don't know what's wrong just makes things worse.

It might simply be a corroded wire.

 

And, if it is the alt getting tired, no amount of adding wires and making a dangerous charging system is going to fix the problem.

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Yes... She Lives in PERU and works at a Zone in Lima's Downtown known as "La Parada" (The Bus Stop) where many purse Robbers have run with her Purse, so when She looks one approaching, she does her "Helicopter" Movement with her Purse and the Robbers goes away...

 

_______________________________

 

 

What have I Done to my Subie Lately?

 

Well, I have prepared many Small Pieces to Paint and also I Already Painted an Undercoat and all the Undercarriage of my BumbleBeast.

 

Pics Soon...

 

Kind Regards.

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Yes... She Lives in PERU and works at a Zone in Lima's Downtown known as "La Parada" (The Bus Stop) where many purse Robbers have run with her Purse, so when She looks one approaching, she does her "Helicopter" Movement with her Purse and the Robbers goes away...

 

_______________________________

 

 

What have I Done to my Subie Lately?

 

Well, I have prepared many Small Pieces to Paint and also I Already Painted an Undercoat and all the Undercarriage of my BumbleBeast.

 

Pics Soon...

 

Kind Regards.

 

 

You very much like yellow, my friend, don't you? Haha. I saw the earlier post of a bracket painted, you do an excellent job painting. The paint is very even and very thick. Comes out very professional looking.

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2WD Justy... it will be very Economic to Drive, Pics Please! :)

 

 

You very much like yellow, my friend, don't you? Haha. I saw the earlier post of a bracket painted, you do an excellent job painting. The paint is very even and very thick. Comes out very professional looking.

 

Thank you, You're So Kind!

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just got my weber in the mail! :brow:

 

looks like it has been in a rust bucket for 20 years though... :(

 

nothing carb & choke cleaner, and a scuff pad wont fix! :D

 

here are the pics before cleaning, right out of the box.

 

dscn0727y.jpg

 

dscn0728f.jpg

 

dscn0729mz.jpg

 

dscn0731w.jpg

 

dscn0732s.jpg

 

here are some pics of all the ************ i sprayed out and off of it. :Flame:

 

dscn0734d.jpg

 

dscn0735wo.jpg

 

then the pics of it all clean!

 

dscn0736n.jpg

 

dscn0738co.jpg

 

dscn0740e.jpg

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Is the passenger side front damaged?

 

It is really clean looking though! Nice score.

 

The passenger corner light is broken and hood is bent, seat is ripped and needs a couple things but besides just replacing a HG. also found some 13" original brand new justy wheels.

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