kanurys Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 new (to me) CV axle rendered this beauty, what kind of dunder head mechanic would think this is ok..... also installed back seats with head rests for $10 I <3 picknpull You did pretty well getting it out. Mine was reallllllllllly stuck zzz. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=117925&highlight=axle I just did some mods on my EJ adapter plate and got the clutch and flywheel on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subynut Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 How on earth do people jam those in? When I have put the axles on backwards, that pin comes to an abrupt stop. Do they live by the "Get a bigger hammer!" rule? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 I fear the day I have to try and remove my driver's side axle, which,from all appearances, looks like a mechanic cut off the shaft of a small phillips head screwdriver and rammed that in there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 You did pretty well getting it out. Mine was reallllllllllly stuck zzz.http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=117925&highlight=axle I just did some mods on my EJ adapter plate and got the clutch and flywheel on. Been there, dealt with that. I used a grinder, though. I bought the tranny from someone with both axles still attached, with the shafts cut in half with a torch. There was a broken off punch stuck in both roll pins. One side had a punch going through each side of the roll pin. So then they gave up and torched the axles in half Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knoxuni Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 today i used some white shepord oil leak eliminator and it did the trick. no more oil leak and the tic went bye bye. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 Ugh, I hate magic oil you pour in to band aid over problems. Just fix the problem... Just so you know, you'll still have to replace whatever seal is leaking eventually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 (edited) Replace the leaking seal(s) and run some Marvel Mystery Oil in with fresh oil. This will help condition other seals, clean valves, pistons and gunk, and your motor will thank you for it. You can also run some SeaFoam or ATF in the oil to clean out built up sludge which might be causing the tick. A consistent lifter tick in the EA82 is usually from Air getting into the oil system, via leaking cam seals, oil pump seal, Valve covers ect. Repair it once, and have a happy running Subaru. Using Stop leak fixes, is like putting Saw dust into a slipping Automatic transmission. It is not fixing anything, just an illusion. Edited May 29, 2012 by TheLoyale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 Replace the leaking seal(s) and run some Marvel Mystery Oil in with fresh oil. This will help condition other seals, clean valves, pistons and gunk, and your motor will thank you for it. You can also run some SeaFoam or ATF in the oil to clean out built up sludge which might be causing the tick. A consistent lifter tick in the EA82 is usually from oil getting into the oil system, via leaking cam seals, oil pump seal, Valve covers ect. Repair it once, and have a happy running Subaru. Using Stop leak fixes, is like putting Saw dust into a slipping Automatic transmission. It is not fixing anything, just an illusion. I think it's saw dust in a MANUAL transmission to stop gear and bearing noise. In an automatic transmission it would VERY quickly clog up the filter, clog all oil passages, and totally make the thing stop working. Anyway, I don't think sawdust is a great friction modifier PS. oil in your oil is always a good thing haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 Whoops lol. Edited it. Should be "Air into the Oil system" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 I know, but I can't pass up the chance to be an rump roast about something Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 I know, but I can't pass up the chance to be an rump roast about something YES! Why should GD take all the glory... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moosen Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 1 3 5 .╠╬╬╗. 2 4 6 R hehe tranny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knoxuni Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 I dont have the time or money right now or well even the space. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 Fixed my parking brake. Again. It seems that when you (ab)use it too much it stops working Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moosen Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 Installed new fuel pump! Stoked! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 Installed new fuel pump! Stoked! This remedy your issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moosen Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 This remedy your issue? seemed to do the trick. My car still stumble when i put the pedal to the metal at idle.... what is that from? even after the car is warm. it like stutters than revs. and if the engine is cold then it dies. also if im starting my car with the pedal on the floor it wont go. any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 seemed to do the trick. My car still stumble when i put the pedal to the metal at idle.... what is that from? even after the car is warm. it like stutters than revs. and if the engine is cold then it dies. also if im starting my car with the pedal on the floor it wont go. any ideas? Is this an ea82? ea82 won't start with the pedal to the floor, that's fuel cut. For clearing a flooded engine. If it doesn't like WOT off idle it's probably a sticky IAC valve. If you unplug the IAC valve, it won't go WOT at all, it'll totally fall on it's face. So when it gets sticky and slow, it'll get studdery when you go WOT. If this isn't an efi ea82, ignore my post... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goblewagon Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 seemed to do the trick. My car still stumble when i put the pedal to the metal at idle.... what is that from? even after the car is warm. it like stutters than revs. and if the engine is cold then it dies. also if im starting my car with the pedal on the floor it wont go. any ideas? does it have the stock hitachi? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 Lol. Its a Weber swap EA82 IIRC Secondary no opening right away? Take the air cleaner off, and rev it by hand and see what the carb is doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moosen Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 Lol. Its a Weber swap EA82 IIRC Secondary no opening right away? Take the air cleaner off, and rev it by hand and see what the carb is doing. Yeah it's what he said. Yeah I thought it might be something with the choke. But wouldn't explain why once it is warmed up when the choke is open why it does that. also was does WOT stand for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 Yeah it's what he said. Yeah I thought it might be something with the choke. But wouldn't explain why once it is warmed up when the choke is open why it does that. also was does WOT stand for? Wide Open Throttle (I know, I just figured that out a few months ago lol) Choke shouldn't be an issue with the DGEV, I forgot, did you get a new carb or used? For starting, I would push the pedal down fully once, let it up, then start. Holding the pedal down isn't needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 Yeah it's what he said. Yeah I thought it might be something with the choke. But wouldn't explain why once it is warmed up when the choke is open why it does that. also was does WOT stand for? BURN OUT MODE (wide open throttle) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moosen Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 Wide Open Throttle (I know, I just figured that out a few months ago lol) Choke shouldn't be an issue with the DGEV, I forgot, did you get a new carb or used? For starting, I would push the pedal down fully once, let it up, then start. Holding the pedal down isn't needed. I bought a brand new one. and the trans adapt 2107. mmkay well could it be getting too much air in the secondary? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 That is possible. I am just now getting into carbs, so you'll have to pardon my ignorance, its a learning curve. But then again, its all shear mechanics and pretty straight forward for the most part. I know my old EA81 Hitachi had a hiccup when I'd rev it more then 1/4 throttle off idle. But then again, my carb was original and probably worn. Once it was off idle, you could rev it WOT with out any issues. Just of idle it would stumble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now