Cyfun Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 Damn dude, what awful luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadabob Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 Djellum and I met up with our good friend to teach him how to drive stick on our Subies. He needs to learn, not to buy a Subaru, BUT he is leaning towards the FR-S, so I "allowed" him the pleasure of driving the BRAT, lol... Pic a little blurry...it was cold, and I had wolves after me... other then that, I picked up a couple Ammo Boxes for the BRAT, and I plan on getting some of the "custom" details I want finished for WCSS completed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subynut Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 Had the machine shop look at the head - every thing looks good. Valve's straight and the seat, guide, and seal are all ok. He installed new retainers for the valve stem and I was good to go. So, last night I reinstalled the head with a new gasket, torqued down to FSM specs, installed the cam carrier, made double sure the rocker arms are in their right place, and the valve cover. I'll be finishing things up and hopefully reinstall the engine tonight. I might have had the engine in the car if the swamp cooler hadn't fried the water pump. An easy fix, but it's still two hours not towards fixing the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Txakura Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 I got off my third point of contact and pulled the EJ seats out of the RX, rinsed them with a hose, scrubbed them with 'tough stuff' and a stiff brush THEN used the upholstery attachment on my steam cleaner... with the seats out I vacuumed the car and steam cleaned the carpets. Put the seats back in last night, maybe I'll ride on a towel on the way to work :-p 24 years of carpet grime anyone? I got new rear struts, a variable speed buffer and some mirror glaze to play with later. Bending over the door frame to do the rugs, my back is killing me, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 Got off my third point of contact, took apart my extra ej transmission and used the input shaft as my clutch alignment tool for the EA clutch on my EJ22. Then I installed the EJ22. Turns out the pilot bearing was a TIGHT fit. This was the 3rd alignment tool I have tried to get this thing in. I sanded off some corrosion on the shaft and greased it all up. It mated together with some contest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subynut Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 Mmm...phase II EJ22. Nice kanurys! Well on my project, engine is back in the car. All that's left is reinstall the Alternator, a few more wires, fix the wire I broke during engine removal, battery, reattach radiator hoses, fluids, fans, belts, and then I'll be back to where I started - retuning the carb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpreset Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 on my hatch just rebuilt the Hitachi carburetor now it runs great Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj421 Posted August 4, 2012 Share Posted August 4, 2012 Just finished putting on new brake pads on my Loyale. Didn't necessarily need new brakes, but got to use my new torque wrench, jack stands, ratchet adapters, cotter pins, and 36mm socket. :-p Also tightened up the axle nut on the front driver's side. It was so loose, you could take it off by hand. Torqued it to spec and installed a new cotter pin (original one snapped off). Hopefully that'll hold. Plan on doing my passenger side axle when it comes in the mail next Friday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 Wonder Wedge Posted August 4, 2012 Share Posted August 4, 2012 Well, rolled over 119K today, and changed the front struts (since the PO or whoever had put 4WD sensa-traks up front causing a +2.0 camber! (FYI, the 2wd strut has its spring base plate ~1" lower to the spindle than the 4wd ones.) Also regreased and rebooted the driver's axle since the boots were getting tired/cracking and the axle seal was shot.... National seal and Beck/Arnley boots. The beck/arnley boots were the exact OE replacements (no uni-fit dormans here! ) and they work and look exactly like the OEM. VERY impressed. even made in USA! :-p And to top it off, new set of General AltiMax RT (175/70/R13). $49 ea from tireRack. So far, VERY impressed as well, comfortable and quiet and nice agressive treads on the sidewalls. And the icing, NEW HUBCAPS!!! I bought the last 4 in the U.S. Even got the note from the Subaru dealer network, pretty cool! Ill be posting pics soon, but NTB for 22 each! Now about that stupid radio... and maybe some Hella 500 Black magics for the front???? yes please! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coxy Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 Fitted fresh Loyal wagon seats mint condition much better than 400,000Km originals,A New Extinguisher on the floor in front of Passenger seats and picked up some mint doors from a wrecker for a bargain $50 with zero rust and no wear in hinges,Boy do I love pick and pull. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subynut Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 jj421, The loose castle nut could be an early sign the wheel bearings are beginning to go. Might want wise to check it in another 500 to 1000 miles. Onto my project: This car of my sister's is driving me crazy! I swapped in the OEM cams - idles much better, starts a whole lot easier, and.......it sounds like it has a roots style supercharger!?!?! And we leave for WCSS next Monday. Ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 it sounds like it has a roots style supercharger!?!?! That's awesome. lol, different strokes for different folks though, sorry it's something you don't want! I should talk though, my exhaust manifold gaskets are, well...gone. My car is LOUUUD as ************. Can't wait to get that fixed later this month... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 Also tightened up the axle nut on the front driver's side. It was so loose, you could take it off by hand. Torqued it to spec and installed a new cotter pin (original one snapped off). Hopefully that'll hold. Plan on doing my passenger side axle when it comes in the mail next Friday. They don't come loose because the nut backing off, they come loose because the cone washer is worn out. It will be loose again, and probably ruin the wheel bearing. It's a dealer only item, so I'd order one of those sooner than later. And... Torque wrench? haha. The only thing I use a torque wrench on is heads on the engine, and that type of thing. The torque spec on the axle nut is, according to (i think monstaru): Tighten it until the threads strip, and back it off 1/4 turns. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subynut Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 That's awesome. lol, different strokes for different folks though, sorry it's something you don't want! I should talk though, my exhaust manifold gaskets are, well...gone. My car is LOUUUD as ************. Can't wait to get that fixed later this month... Yeah well, if I wasn't going on a 3400 mile trip through the torturous desert heat, I would rock it. But a shot engine 1700 miles from home is not my kind of fun - been there, tried that, never ever will do again. Good news is, I took the car to my local machine shop friend and with the assistance of a few of his tools, we found that the loudest noise is coming from the passenger cam belt tensioner. The second loudest is the idler pulley for the second belt. I ordered a new tensioner and will pull that pulley out and see if we can find a new bearing for it. If not, I think I may have a spare laying around somewhere.....I just might get this thing ready for WCSS yet.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pooparu Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 Bill and I just dropped this little baby into the BRAT: Its a 3.9 XT6 R&P, RX gear set, 1.59:1 low range gears in an RX case with FT4WD and diff lock. It pretty much rocks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj421 Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 (edited) jj421, The loose castle nut could be an early sign the wheel bearings are beginning to go. Might want wise to check it in another 500 to 1000 miles. Yeah, I'll definitely check it again. I will probably get around to doing the front bearings on both sides anyways. Once I get my car registered, then I'll most likely do the bearings. In fact, the thread in this category named, "Ungodly grinding left front" seems to fit my issue exactly. I do have a grinding noise at the left front (maybe right front too, but I can't hear over there :-p ) and they seemed to have fixed it by replacing the bearings. So that's definitely what I'll need to do. They don't come loose because the nut backing off, they come loose because the cone washer is worn out. It will be loose again, and probably ruin the wheel bearing. It's a dealer only item, so I'd order one of those sooner than later. And... Torque wrench? haha. The only thing I use a torque wrench on is heads on the engine, and that type of thing. The torque spec on the axle nut is, according to (i think monstaru): Tighten it until the threads strip, and back it off 1/4 turns. Yeah, whilst searching through threads, I did come to the conclusion that the cone washer is bad. I did take a look at it, and visually it looks fine, but I don't know what it looks like brand new, so it might be worn out. Any idea how much they cost from the dealer? One user managed to get the cone washer from an auto parts store for cheaper. Well, it wouldn't hurt to call O'Reilly and NAPA to see if I could maybe get it cheaper (unless it's relatively cheap from the dealer). Or I could go to the Pick-N-Pull and get me one from another Loyale, although there's no saying if that one will be good. Yup. I just bought my torque wrench and my 36mm socket. I wanted to use them. Well, I did have to torque the brake caliper nut to ~37 ft-lbs, and then the axle nut is torqued to 145 ft-lbs. I definitely needed the torque wrench since I don't really have a way of tightening it, let alone torquing it that much (I was breaking a sweat trying to tighten it :-p ). Gonna need to use it again when my axle comes in the mail on Friday. Edited August 7, 2012 by jj421 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyfun Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 Bill and I just dropped this little baby into the BRAT:Its a 3.9 XT6 R&P, RX gear set, 1.59:1 low range gears in an RX case with FT4WD and diff lock. It pretty much rocks Diff lock?! Please, do go on! One user managed to get the cone washer from an auto parts store for cheaper. Well, it wouldn't hurt to call O'Reilly and NAPA to see if I could maybe get it cheaper (unless it's relatively cheap from the dealer). Or I could go to the Pick-N-Pull and get me one from another Loyale, although there's no saying if that one will be good. I was never able to find the cone washers at any auto parts store. The Soobie dealer wanted like $15 EACH and would have to special order them anyway. Didn't find anyone online who had them, either. But I went to the junkyard and stole a handful of them that're in good condition, even got axle nuts too. So I'd recommend just going to the junkyard, cheaper and faster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj421 Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 I was never able to find the cone washers at any auto parts store. The Soobie dealer wanted like $15 EACH and would have to special order them anyway. Didn't find anyone online who had them, either. But I went to the junkyard and stole a handful of them that're in good condition, even got axle nuts too. So I'd recommend just going to the junkyard, cheaper and faster. I read somewhere that someone got 'em from an auto parts store. But yeah, I'll probably just go up to the junkyard and take a few cone washers and a few axle nuts, as well as try and get some wheel bearings if they're good. Might go this week since I don't work much; who knows? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djellum Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 if you need to look up the cone washer the part is called a "center piece axle". unlikely to find at a parts store. if you go for used ones or reuse the one you have, make sure it doesnt have a ridge on the outermost edge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyfun Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 I read somewhere that someone got 'em from an auto parts store. But yeah, I'll probably just go up to the junkyard and take a few cone washers and a few axle nuts, as well as try and get some wheel bearings if they're good. Might go this week since I don't work much; who knows? I checked Napa, Oreilly, Autozone, Carquest locally, and a bunch of stores online, nobody had them or could get them. I'd be curious if someone did get them from a store and where it was. But when the dealer wanted so much money for them and I'd still have to wait a week, figured I'd try my luck at the JY. The cone washers, spring washers, and axle nuts I found were in great shape, probably because they'd only been removed once or twice in the car's life. And I got like 6 sets for $10... I wouldn't recommend getting used wheel bearings from the JY. You can get really nice industrial quality pre-greased sealed bearings on eBay for like $15 a pair. They're bearing model 6207-2rs, and try to find them in ABEC3. In fact, here's a link! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 (edited) In fact, here's a link! Just ordered 2. And -NGK plugs+wires -Beck/Arnley fuel filter -new spindle nuts for the front -Exhaust manifold gaskets -Gates timing belts -SMP disty cap and rotor Need to still -Order the 'center piece axle' or 'conical spacer/washer' from either shawn @ retro-roo or the dealer. Anybody gotten R/Roo's parts before? -Go pick up a steering knuckle to replace the ..problematic one -find a windshield -get a sticker (somehow ) Only two weeks to get the car ready before I book to the west coast. Lots of stuff to do!! Anybody along my route to Burning Man?? (80 from here to NV)?? Not only would it be cool to see some of you guys' roo's, but it would also be cool to know where some people are at just in case. Not planning on breaking down, but life doesn't follow plans sometimes =P Edited August 7, 2012 by l75eya Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj421 Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 (edited) I checked Napa, Oreilly, Autozone, Carquest locally, and a bunch of stores online, nobody had them or could get them. I'd be curious if someone did get them from a store and where it was. But when the dealer wanted so much money for them and I'd still have to wait a week, figured I'd try my luck at the JY. The cone washers, spring washers, and axle nuts I found were in great shape, probably because they'd only been removed once or twice in the car's life. And I got like 6 sets for $10... I wouldn't recommend getting used wheel bearings from the JY. You can get really nice industrial quality pre-greased sealed bearings on eBay for like $15 a pair. They're bearing model 6207-2rs, and try to find them in ABEC3. In fact, here's a link! Huh, wonder why such a small part is so hard to find.... I'll definitely go by the junkyard when I can and see what I can pick up. Thanks for the link! Only $17 for a pair of them ($34 for both sides on the front wheels then) definitely beats O'Reilly's price of $29 for one (ergo, $116 for the four bearings on the front wheels). Although I will still have to buy the seals, grease (if I need it, considering they're pre-greased), and other stuff, but it's definitely cheaper! I'll probably go ahead and purchase two pairs later today, since I'm too lazy to get my wallet out right now. Just ordered 2. And -NGK plugs+wires -Beck/Arnley fuel filter -new spindle nuts for the front -Exhaust manifold gaskets -Gates timing belts -SMP disty cap and rotor Need to still -Order the 'center piece axle' or 'conical spacer/washer' from either shawn @ retro-roo or the dealer. Anybody gotten R/Roo's parts before? -Go pick up a steering knuckle to replace the ..problematic one -find a windshield -get a sticker (somehow ) The only thing I've gotten from RetroRoo is some decals that he mailed me. Sent me like six decals for $5, so he's awesome in my opinion! And I'd be interested in a windshield too. Maybe not now, but later. So if you get one for cheap, let me know where I can get one too. :-p Edited August 7, 2012 by jj421 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 And I'd be interested in a windshield too. Maybe not now, but later. So if you get one for cheap, let me know where I can get one too. Haha, I do know of one, but it's too far of a drive to make any sense financially to go get it. There's a glass place in central pennsylvania that put a windshield in our Loyale 2 years ago. $160 installed. Can't beat that. Most glass places local are quoting me around $250 +/- $30 :-\ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj421 Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 Haha, I do know of one, but it's too far of a drive to make any sense financially to go get it. There's a glass place in central pennsylvania that put a windshield in our Loyale 2 years ago. $160 installed. Can't beat that. Most glass places local are quoting me around $250 +/- $30 :-\ Wow, and since I live out here in Washington, it'd cost thousands for me to drive out there. Definitely not worth it, haha. And I guess any place you go to will be a different price than over here. My windshield, well, short of two medium cracks and two very small cracks, is nothing really but dirty. I'm probably gonna just wait until I get pulled over and a cop says something about it before I replace it. It doesn't bother me while driving, so it doesn't bother me at all. I actually went ahead and bought two pairs of those bearings. Thanks again for the link! Saved me a bunch of money that I don't have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyfun Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 There's a glass place in central pennsylvania that put a windshield in our Loyale 2 years ago. $160 installed. Can't beat that. Most glass places local are quoting me around $250 +/- $30 :-\ Some glass places will pricematch. Try calling Safelite, get a quote for your car's windshield, then tell them some other outfit in town will do it for like $120 or $130 or $140, somewhere in that range. They usually don't even verify it, they will just match the price cause they want your business. I've done that and gotten windshields for several cars for around $130 installed, and the guy even drove to my house to do it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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