What Have You Done to your Soobie lately? (Please post in here and keep it going)

[MR_Loyale]

What's going on here? Rebuild?

Bearing and seal replacement

[l75eya]

Nice. Do you have a thread on the process? Could you tell me what parts you got? I may try to do the same thing before I go replacing mine. Dual range?

[l75eya]

A while ago. Thankfully I didn't install it sideways.

Edited June 12, 2014 by l75eya

[MR_Loyale]

Nice. Do you have a thread on the process? Could you tell me what parts you got? I may try to do the same thing before I go replacing mine. Dual range?

When it is done I will do a writeup. Right now I am still getting parts. Will get the bearing tomorrow. It is a TM70F Fwd only. 

[TheWanderer]

Got the car back from the shop today, they finished up the timing belt and water pump.  Its not quite perfect as far as the timing goes, and they didn't advance the distributor timing far enough at first.  Fixed the advance and she runs much better (prior to that she had a bit of a lope in the idle and would fall flat and bog down until about 15mph and 3/4 throttle).  Still has a bit of a lope in the idle but has full power back.  I think the timing belt itself is about half a tooth off.  I'll go back in and fix it later on, but for right now I can't really afford to be without the car (they've had it for a week and I've already lost my new job because of it )  But they knocked $20 off of the price for the issue with the timing.  Total came to $200 even (including the tow to the shop), $150 for the labor and $50 for the towing.  The discount pretty much covered the shop supply fee for antifreeze, etc.

 

Next on the list will be the rear brakes, The shoes are shot, almost down to bare metal and there is a lot of slack in the pedal that takes about a pump or two to pick up.  From there it'll be on to the digital media head unit and front speakers being installed and 2 more falken sincera's on the front.  Gotta get some cash flowing first and pay the rent for next month before I can do much of anything though

[987687]

It got stuck again... so replacement is probably best at this point.

 

Question for you all: is it easier to just grab an ignition switch and key from a junker, or is this a part I can actually order and replace?  I would rather not have to use two keys (door, and ignition) but it seems unavoidable now.

 

 

Last time this happened to me I grabbed one from the junkyard. No key. I bought new wafers and just re-keyed it myself.

But I'm sure a good locksmith could re-key it for you, as well. It's not very hard.

[1 Lucky Texan]

dang, CEL came on this morning on the WRX. boost is killed. Probably means the tumble generator valve code I had a coupla years ago is back. I'll scan the codes when I get home.

 

thinking about paying a shop to install a TGV delete, and probably have them install the block-off plates for my non-functioning air cut valves while they have it apart.

 

ugh

 

 

P2006, 2007 and 2012

 

P2006 Intake Manifold Runner Stuck Closed Control Bank 1

 

P2007 Intake Manifold Runner Stuck Closed Control Bank 2

 

P2012 Intake Manifold Runner Control Bank 2 Circuit Low

 

Car ran normally on the way home, I cleared the codes. Hoping they don't come back. This happened to me in 2012 and just sorta resolved itself.

 

 

I don't think they are sticking due to being gummed-up. Odds seem long for both banks to stick simultaneously. I suspect this is an electrical 'glitch' and perhaps this battery is getting old? But it wasn't old in 2012 so......

Edited June 13, 2014 by 1 Lucky Texan

[wagonist]

Boy they sure do put lots o parts in them thar transmissions:

 

 

 

 

Yeah Grant, it isn't going back in the car this week. LOL.

A lot of parts? Be thankful then you don't have dual range, full time 4wd box then

There's another set of gears in that space above the front diff, the input shaft is in 2 pieces, then there's a diff hanging off the back with a locking mech inside...

[Twitch de la Brat]

Have had an ongoing squeak/squall for a while.

I investigated my front brakes thinking they had gone bad. They still have over half life on them.
Continued investigating the squall, and realized the driver's side axle nut spun off by hand.

Previous person who worked on it hadn't cranked it down properly.

Popped the hub off and there was rust and a shiny metal bearing race where it had been rubbing.

Hooray for incompetency. So now I get to return the brake bits and keep the bearings for install.

The shop that owned this car will not be getting any references ever again.

No pix yet, but pretty much everyone knows how to pull an EA82 hub apart to replace bearings.

Zeh Vedge shall be silent again soon! And F/4WD drive as well, as I will reinstall the other axle.

 

Twitch

[subynut]

Over the weekend, I cleaned a corner of the garage for some workspace, pulled the engine out of the PandaWagon and removed the heads. I'm taking the heads down to the engine shop today to have them looked over.  Gasket set should be in today. Unless something comes up with the heads, I might have her back on the road by the weekend.

[MR_Loyale]

Over the weekend, I cleaned a corner of the garage for some workspace, pulled the engine out of the PandaWagon and removed the heads. I'm taking the heads down to the engine shop today to have them looked over.  Gasket set should be in today. Unless something comes up with the heads, I might have her back on the road by the weekend.

  I feel like a slacker.

[l75eya]

Oh yeah, well I adjusted my mirror just yesterday.

[Tsuru]

It got stuck again... so replacement is probably best at this point.

 

Question for you all: is it easier to just grab an ignition switch and key from a junker, or is this a part I can actually order and replace?  I would rather not have to use two keys (door, and ignition) but it seems unavoidable now.

 

You can go ahead and get the parts yard ignition, and still only use one key.

Here is how...

 

Once you get the ignition cylinder and key, take your new ignition key, and your old door key in to your local locksmith (usually one of the department store key makers cannot do this) and have them cut ONE SIDE of the key blank with the pattern off of the door key, and the OTHER SIDE of the blank with the pattern off the ignition key.

then have them file a small notch on one side of the hey head (only one side) so you can tell if it is facing the right way for (ignition lock, or door lock).

The secret to our older style locks is that they ONLY READ ONE SIDE OF THE KEY!

so you could even have ONE KEY to fit TWO SUBARU'!

provided that the key styles are the same.

 

I used to do this for customers all the time at the hardware store when they would need a key (or two) for similar vehicles.

It also works for FORD, CHRYSLER, GM and many others that have the double sided keys.

 

One side up works doors and trunk/hatch, flip it over for the ignition...OR one side up for the green Subaru, the other side up for the red one!

 

BUT you have to have a key maker who understands what you want done...that is why I said that most department stores that make keys won't be able to.

 

It's not illegal, it's not immoral, and it's convenient as heck!

 

Respectfully,

Timothy

[Tsuru]

I wish I had taken photos for this. but I was just too focused on getting it done.

 

I fixed the electric door lock actuator (the one in the hatch).

it was not connected and I found out why when I tried to reconnect it.

it just ran making grindy whirry noises.

I pulled the black box with the rod that connected it to the locking mechanism out of the hatch and then removed the six screws that held the cover on.

(I think they used a fish based lubricant in it because it smelled horrid when I opened it)

Once inside I found the motor with a small metal gear, that was supposed to be meshed with a larger nylon-plastic gear.

the teeth of the plastic gear were stripped in one spot, allowing the motor to run continuously when it hit that part of the gear.

my first thought was to try and build up the gear teeth with JB Weld or some similar epoxy, but the gear being plastic would likely just shed the attempt.

So I found that the drive motor was held in place with a small strap and two small screws. I removed the screws and then drilled the holes on each side of the strap slightly oversized so that I could move the drive motor (and attached gear) closer to the stripped gear, giving it more "bite".

I then secured it in the new close position and reassembled the whole thing and hey-presto! the silly thing WORKED!

It still works, and that was over a week ago that I did this little modification.

If I have to do it to one of the other ones, I will take photos.

Otherwise, I am not disturbing it because it seems happy.

 

I WISH there were a decent parts yard nearby where I could pull one just for a photo op.

it really is a simple fix and well within the mechanical aptitude of most of us here.

 

and now all of the wagons electric door locks work!

 

Yay!

 

Respectfully,

Timothy

[subynut]

Replaced the front main seal, the rear oil separator plate, and the oil pan gasket.  I'll be dropping off the valve seals to the machine shop today. Hopefully he can get them done by the end of the week. I'd really like to get her back on the road this weekend.

[colemanapp]

Took home a Best In Class win at a Midwest Subaru car show called Scoobapalooza. OK, I was the only one in my class but for the WRX, STI group, they really like the old Loyale Wagon and it got a lot of looks. Pre 93 class. It turned out they actually didn't have a placque or trophy for my class so they game me a 3rd place autocross trophy.  

[l75eya]

I couldn't get that box out. I was having the same problem. The bottom screw on the inside of the door wouldn't loosen. It would turn slightly in either direction but then stop. Then while I was messing with the linkage while the lock motor was running, it just stopped working and hasn't since. :-\

 

I wish I had taken photos for this. but I was just too focused on getting it done.

 

I fixed the electric door lock actuator (the one in the hatch).

it was not connected and I found out why when I tried to reconnect it.

it just ran making grindy whirry noises.

I pulled the black box with the rod that connected it to the locking mechanism out of the hatch and then removed the six screws that held the cover on.

(I think they used a fish based lubricant in it because it smelled horrid when I opened it)

Once inside I found the motor with a small metal gear, that was supposed to be meshed with a larger nylon-plastic gear.

the teeth of the plastic gear were stripped in one spot, allowing the motor to run continuously when it hit that part of the gear.

my first thought was to try and build up the gear teeth with JB Weld or some similar epoxy, but the gear being plastic would likely just shed the attempt.

So I found that the drive motor was held in place with a small strap and two small screws. I removed the screws and then drilled the holes on each side of the strap slightly oversized so that I could move the drive motor (and attached gear) closer to the stripped gear, giving it more "bite".

I then secured it in the new close position and reassembled the whole thing and hey-presto! the silly thing WORKED!

It still works, and that was over a week ago that I did this little modification.

If I have to do it to one of the other ones, I will take photos.

Otherwise, I am not disturbing it because it seems happy.

 

I WISH there were a decent parts yard nearby where I could pull one just for a photo op.

it really is a simple fix and well within the mechanical aptitude of most of us here.

 

and now all of the wagons electric door locks work!

 

Yay!

 

Respectfully,

Timothy

[rrgrr]

Took home a Best In Class win at a Midwest Subaru car show called Scoobapalooza. OK, I was the only one in my class but for the WRX, STI group, they really like the old Loyale Wagon and it got a lot of looks. Pre 93 class. It turned out they actually didn't have a placque or trophy for my class so they game me a 3rd place autocross trophy.  

I might have made it to that if I knew about it! Let me know when another comes up -who is organizing these?

[TheYeti]

Thanks for the replies on the lock/ignition issue, all.

 

Probably just going to get a used one with a key for now.  I will get the old one repaired at some point

 

j.

[Tsuru]

Thanks for the replies on the lock/ignition issue, all.

 

Probably just going to get a used one with a key for now.  I will get the old one repaired at some point

 

j.

Fantastic, do what you must to keep her rolling.

Best of luck!

 

Respectfully,

Timothy

[TallonX]

How bout what have you done to A subi lately...

 

Just finished lifting a buddy's Outback, Forrester strut assembly and 1" spacers.

 

Overall lift 2.5-3"

[MR_Loyale]

Got the input shaft bearing and seal for my transmission.

 

 

 

Grant - this IS going back in next week! 

[MR_Loyale]

Prepping the two halves of the transmission to come together, I decided to leave a 20th anniversary message inside with my stamping kit for whoever opens this up again (not me I hope). A transmission Easter egg of sorts.

 

That is the speedo gear on the right. No I am not going crazy. I've already arrived.

 

Edited June 21, 2014 by MR_Loyale

[Loyale 2.7 Turbo]

Nice Idea! 

 

We all have some sort of Craziness, Subaru Craziness, you know ...   ...

 

Kind Regards.

[1 Lucky Texan]

Wife's car got a new battery. VatoZone Gold lasted 3 years 9 months, not
bad for this part of the country. anything over 3 years is good.



But, only had $40 of pro-rated money. Decided to get a Super Start
Extreme from O'Reilly's . With a slight difference in price and a rebate
(well - gift card) it saves me maybe $5 ,and , the battery is sealed/0
maintenance. Though it may be getting weak/old now, I really like the
one in my WRX. I think there's less corrosion because of the way it's
vented ? The pos. terminal in the Outback was a mess, I swapped it for
anew terminal - AGAIN.



Freaked me out for 30 seconds. Didn't want to start until I locked/unlocked it with the remote fob.