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What Have You Done to your Soobie lately? (Please post in here and keep it going)


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TheLoyale:

 

The reason for the 2.5 instead of the 2.2 is more displacement and 10:1 compression = more torque!:burnout: Since I'm sticking to a N/A build, I need all the displacement I can get.:) Oh, and prolly no more than 2" pipes if I go true duals, anything larger and I will be working against the pipes instead of with them.

 

 

CHIM:

That's awesome!:banana: Love the lifted ea81 bodies. Good looking roo!

 

If you want REAL torque, go with an EG33 :grin:

That sucker will tear your car in half!

 

Twitch

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True, but also at the cost of handling and major fabrication of the front end to relocate the radiator - that's one LONG engine. I could go to a EZ30D, but I am limited to how much power I can generate since the heads have a single exhaust port for each side. If I had the funding, I'd go EZ30R, but not on my salary. :( So, I will stick with the 2.5. Besides, like you said, the torque out of that EG33 would rip my poor wagon in two!:eek:

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Without a muffler of some sort, yes, it would sound terrible. When we did the EJ22 conversion, he didn't get the exhaust done immeadiately so it ended right after the cat. Boy, was that LOUD! It sounded terrible too. I heard a EA71 with straight pipes - that sounded mean, but way too loud for street driving.

However, if I use a set of glasspacks or turbo mufflers, that should keep the noise at a reasonable level, but still sound mean with duals.

I toyed with doing duals on the EA82 in my old 86 wagon, but decided against it due to lack of low rpm torque. Since the new engine will be 2.5L, that's 1250cc per side. Should be able to find a good pipe size with that. Anybody know what the size of the EJ22 y-pipe is? I know it's double walled to keep the noise down.

That's option A, option B would be get a set of equal length headers, resonator, and an STi muffler to put on there. Quiet, but deadly.:brow:

The other thing with true duals is whether the ECU will be able to compensate for the fact that it's only seeing half the exhaust gasses....If it goes nuts, then I will have to use option B. Choices choices.....

A local exhaust experimented with their 87 carb wagon during the early 90s (they had a dyno as well).

They found that dual 2.25" pipes to just in front of the rear diff gave the best compromise.

How this would relate to the later larger EFI motors is anyone's guess though.

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I removed the A/C Pump and am down to one belt now, The A/C was in the way of alot of things, plus you can't get to the By-pass hose for the heater core that runs under the intake if the A/C pump is installed. So its out and am much happier.

 

2010_0111Test0019.jpg

 

Genuine Parts:

Radiator

Waterpump/gasket

Thermo/gasket

Trans Cooling Lines

 

2010_0111Test0002.jpg

 

-TJD

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A local exhaust experimented with their 87 carb wagon during the early 90s (they had a dyno as well).

They found that dual 2.25" pipes to just in front of the rear diff gave the best compromise.

How this would relate to the later larger EFI motors is anyone's guess though.

 

That's very interesting....did they do true duals or was there a cross pipe?

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I removed the A/C Pump and am down to one belt now, The A/C was in the way of alot of things, plus you can't get to the By-pass hose for the heater core that runs under the intake if the A/C pump is installed. So its out and am much happier.

 

2010_0111Test0019.jpg

I'd be worried about the upper bracket moving now that it's only restrained by a single bolt on the inlet manifold. Unless you've got plans to find the proper bracket from a non-AC car.

Not having AC is not an option over here...

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I might add a peice of water pipe or some threaded pipe in the front most part of the bracket (Where that big bolt used to go on the compressor to hold that electronic thing) just to give it some support in the front setion. Either way, its most likely gonna be fine.

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I added a 14mm threaded rod with 14mm dubble nuts on both ends and lock washers. Now its nice and solid. I had to put more tension on the drive belt as it would cherp when under load.

 

Does anyone have a picture of a Non-AC EA82? I would like to see the other bracket, I think that on some Non-AC EA82s the Alt is moved in closer kinda where the AC pump used to go, correct?

 

-Tom

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Rob, oh that is diffrent! thanks :)

 

Vagen, Car looks good! Now you need to have 12" under the rear diff (Like me) :headbang:

 

 

Ok one more question: Is it normal for a New Genuine Waterpump to make a wine starting at 2000rpm and up? It increases with engine speed. Doesn't seem like its a bad thing, just wondering. Don't tell me I have to disassemble this thing again any time soon..

 

-Tom :)

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Just bought a a donor car for my '90 loyale that was an ea82t / 4eat. I cooked the engine shortly after the trans started torque binding big time!

[ATTACH]7265[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]7266[/ATTACH]

EJ22, 5 spd awd, and untouched since its arrival 'bout a year ago. $240.00 to strip anything I want:grin:

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