hicketts Posted September 12, 2009 Share Posted September 12, 2009 1996 OBW rear rotor Just bought a none running 1996 OBW 176,000 for $500 !!!!! Had it running smooth after 2 hours and a lot of previous knowledge. She had all the receipts including full HG job with all the extras 2 years and 25,000 mile ago. Now I am doing rear rotors, I have done them on my 99 OB SUS, and I know they can be a real bear to get off. However the parts store actually asked for a build date (9-95), and I cant tell if they come off the same way. The originals do not have the threaded holes for removal and even after scraping I still can't see the parting line between the hub and rotor. What are the differences in the early years. YES I checked No parking break is not on Penetrating oil BFH ++++ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted September 12, 2009 Share Posted September 12, 2009 Suspect the only difference is the diameter of the rotor. Are you sure those threaded holes aren't there. If not, my guess is the rotors somewhere in the past where changed with non OEM stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted September 12, 2009 Share Posted September 12, 2009 you must be in the rust belt. my first idea was to buy used hub assemblies, put on new rotors and install them. but if it's as rusted as you say you may run into the same type of problems with all the other bolts. maybe drill holes and tap threads in the rotor to help remove. take a grinder / wire brush wheel on a drill to 'discover' the line between the rotor and the hub. i don't know how that would help except to reassure you that they are two separate pieces. rent a big f******* puller. soak it, soak it, soak it, soak it, soak it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted September 12, 2009 Share Posted September 12, 2009 Get the oddly bent scredriver looking tool out of the Subaru tool kit in the trunk. Or, get a small flat head screwdriver, but really the subaru tool has just the right bend. Bend for what? Adjusting the Parking brake! So now remove the small rubber cover on the lower side of the backing plate. To tighten the shoes you lever the star wheel *up*( lever handle goes down) But in this case we need to loosen the pads, so try to turn the starwheel *down* If you forget there are arrows stamped in that indicate the tightening direction. Go opposite of the arrows to loosen the shoes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hicketts Posted September 12, 2009 Author Share Posted September 12, 2009 finally got it off, it took an even bigger BFH, a 3lb sledge. The new ones do have the threaded holes, I just guess the old ones didn't. I got them all put pack to together, with new front and rear rotor and pads. Then took it for a test drive runs great every thing is working, there is only a slight "wobble" from the tires sitting half flat for 10 months. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted September 12, 2009 Share Posted September 12, 2009 I think you could drill holes in the rotors where the threaded holes would normally be and tap the holes out M8x1.25 like the others were. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVOthis Posted September 12, 2009 Share Posted September 12, 2009 Personally If your replacing the rotors I would be hammering the hell out of the old ones...seriously...Not to much you can damage there with the exception of the e-brake shoes...I've done hundreds of brake jobs on Subarus and either they have the threaded holes or I beat them off with a hammer and Ive never ran into a problem yet.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suzam Posted September 12, 2009 Share Posted September 12, 2009 I worked pulled hammered and swore at my rear rotors on my 87 wagon once until my knuckles were bloody. I realized I had pulled the parking brake on before I put it up on jack stands! DUH! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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