DaveT

Its best to start a.new thread for your problem. Things that can cause bad running- first things to check, in no particular order - Bad fuel, Bad coolant temp sensor. Low fuel pressure, blocked cat.

Here is my collection of CTS info -

Check the CTS and wiring for it. Its the 2 wire sensor on the lower thermostat housing.

Which automatic? A 3AT should be manageable. Im not familiar with the gl10 other than they usually have a turbo.

That one goes to the fuel tank. The whole reason that system is there is to collect the fuel vapors, and let them get burned in the engine.

Maybe struts for a Nissan Rogue? I haven't tried this - but I came across this video - at 10:30 you can see the struct clamps into the knuckle similar to the Subaru ones. I don't have any to measure. I figure the top end is easier to mod or swap.

On my non turbo EA82s, for purge solenoids, and the egr solenoid, I use Toyota solenoids. Almost every Subaru solenoid I have ever had has died. I am still using the same Toyota ones I got at a scrap yard in 1989. I've had about 7 of these cars over the time from 1988 til present. I don't know what model the solenoids were removed from, but it was a similar age as the car, so late 80s. They are not unique, so it doesn't matter. 3 ports, just have to test.which are equivalent function, replace the connector with the one off the dead subaru solenoid.

I know the factory service manuals have full wiring diagrams, pinouts, etc.

Active codes are displayed with no connectors. Read memory stored codes uses one set, clear memory uses another. Along with some other steps. With my EA82SPFI engines, I never needed to do either, since 1988.

Note that the ecu code 35 is only an indication that the solenoid coil is open or maybe shorted. (I have only seen them fail open) The ECU is not very smart on this era engines, if you connect a resistor in its place, it will think it is fine.

Correct, long blink is 10s short blinks are 1s. I don't remember what 12 is , don't have the manual here. There might be a list one the forum, or someone will have a thread on that code.

Read the code by counting the blinks on the red led visible in a hole on the ecu. If something is triggering a code, it will just come back. If nothing is triggering a code, the cel should go off on its own.

Im not sure about the swap on this engine. For the EA82, the single belt pulley you take off the oem alternator. You have to shorten the spacer. There is a detailed write up on this forum.

The CTS [coolant temperature sensor] is a thermally sensitive resistor. It has 2 wires, and is located on the lower part of the thermostat housing. I have posted a thread with various readings of Ohms vs temp vs Volts on this forum.

check the engine ground wires and contact surfaces.