johnceggleston
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Who steals a 9 year old Subaru from a downtown parking garage? Meitner some guy looking for parts or the dumbest crook on earth? or I guess maybe just a guy proving he can do it. Anyway, I’m waiting on details about the car from. A friend. If you have any info holler . -
i didn't know that. but you have to compress the caliper in order to install new pads. no other way to do it. right?
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does this sound logical to you? when replacing the master cylinder, after the new one is reinstalled, if you compress the brake calipers , one or more, you will force brake fluid and any air in the brake line at the mastrer back up into the reservoir. this will eliminate the need to completely bleed the entire system? true or false???? thanks.
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the GT rear is a 4.11 ratio. and was /is a vlsd, locking diff. so a rear diff from an outback or GT, 01 - 03, H4, manual trans will match and be locking. a forester manual trans will match the raio, i do not know if it is locking. but the rear diff from an impreza (not wrx) auto trans or lego L, brighton, or LS auto trans 00 - 03 will also work, just not locking. for that matter, any rear diff from and auto trans car lego 95 - 99 with ej22 engine, or any 93 - 97 auto trans impreza with ej22 or ej18. lots to pick from. check out www.car-part.com sort by zip code, shipping will be expensive.
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this is a wiring problem. in my opinion. do you have a dented trans oil pan? do you have mice or rodents chewing on wires? i would trace the wire runs from end to end. maybe check thr large connectors on the rear passenger side of the engine first. look for dirt, corrosion, bent pins, or loose connections. it maybe could be the TCU, but i would check it last. they don't fail often.
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also, if you miss getting into programming, there is a required '' wait period'' before you can try again. so if it does not work, do not bother trying again right away. i printed the instructions, and tried it once every time i got in the car to go some where. eventually it worked.
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buy and install outback (00 - 03) struts on your lego. easy to do and not very expensive. plus, your lego struts are probably 15 years old. they may be due. then, if you can live with your speedo reading too SLOW, you can install larger, outback tires (and wheels). there are other things you can do, but this is easy.
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i had my rear seal ''blow out'' of my 95 while driving on the hiway. there was a shudder and a bang. i drove straight to a shop and had the seal replaced. later in the evening my car would not back up, no reverse. i bought trans fluid and added 3 qts. and drove back to the shop. the dumb a$$ replaced the seal but did not add any fluid. he said the dip stick read full. dumb a$$. so the answer to your question is, it all depends on how much fluid lost and how long it was fluid starved. if you do the woirk yourself it would not cost much to find out. i drove my 95 for several months with no reverse. it never progressed or got any worse, and some times reverse would actually catch and work. but i had to be really carefull where i parked. good luck.
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the FWD fuse does nothing mechanical, it activates the duty c solenoid which then de-activates the transfer clutch. this eliminates the power to the rear, making the car Front Wheel Drive. this is not the same as installing a switch that ''locks'' the front nand rear wheels together like a 4WD truck with locked hubs.
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the reason they are not reversible, the axle stubs have an odd number of splines. on one side the hole centers on a valley, on the other side it centers on a peak.
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here's a good link to noise diagnosis. http://remanufactured.com/Engine_Diagnosis_101.htm rod knock will go away when you disconnect the plug for the bad cylinder. read up. from the above link
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you turn the key and the engine does nothing? or the engine turns over but does not fire, does not start? usually 2 different problems. a bad battery did this to me once. if ti turns over, check the timing? the AT Temp light can be triggered by a few engine issues tps maf or just a bad wire issue maybe. or of course an actual trans electrical issue. but since it does not run, probably an engine issue.
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assuming it is an auto trans car, and not the 3.0L engine the FWD fuse should be located in the fuse box under the hood. the fuse should be labeled, but i'm pretty sure it is in the rear corner next to the washer fluid tank. take it easy on your drive and you should be ok. usually it takes a long time to actually fail, fall apart. and i'm sure it will make a lot more noise before it does. good luck.
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you do not need to swap the intake manifolds, there is no difference between them. except the 95 will have EGR. but the computer will not be looking for or sending any EGR info so no worries. this also means there is no need to plug the EGR hole in the head. swap away, simple and easy.
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- engine swap
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yes, swap the engine with the exhaust y-pipe and all will be good. simple and easy.
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- engine swap
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