Subaru Scott

I just went through this with my Tribeca. Read specs until my eyes were crossed. In the past, I always went with Castrol, but after comparing specs with Subaru HP... Mobil1 was the only off-the-shelf I could find that had a comparable viscosity@100 degrees Celsius. Most all other brands thinned out at that temp.

Paul, that's a major short there. Don't bother pulling the smaller fuses, they would have blown already. Not remembering how the circuit path is on those, I'm gonna say the alternator is the most likely first place to check. Unhook the big wire from the alternator and test with a jumper like montana tom said. Don't try to run the engine unless you pull the small wire plug from the alternator as well. If that's not it, start looking for a damaged area in the harness after the underhood fuse box. Check in the drivers fenderwell. Could have had a tire come apart or road debris tear into it there.

I think I would start with a new coolant temp sensor.

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Hey, Subasaurus, great idea using the copper tube for terminals!! That's probably the base for commercially made terminals anyway, they just "tin" it to keep it from turning green. I too love the butane soldering irons. They work great and are completely portable. I do love soldered connections, but you have to keep a couple of things in mind: Connections subjected to high vibration, could potentially fracture because all the "give" in the wire was taken away with soldering. I personally have never seen an example of this, and don't believe it is as critical as some claim. Especially if the wire is supported with the vibrating component, well past the wicking point. An additional mechanical connection is preferred, (and required by the NEC in most cases, even though not relevant to automotive systems) because given enough current and resistance, solder will melt. Those ratchet crimpers do a great job up to a #8 wire. Especially the ones with the dies that actually stuff the open ends of the terminals down into the center of the wire like OEM.

Yes, so if you only had the larger #2 terminal on hand, for example, using the hammer crimper. Crimping pliers are not big enough for any cable this size. AWG = American wire gauge. There are also British and European metric sizes. Subarus are technically a metric size, but you really can't find metric terminals here.

Between #2 and #4, depending on year and model. I use the hammer-type crimp tool, which will do a great job on most any size battery cables and ends. They are also very compact to carry with you since the other half of the tool, a BFH, is usually in your tool kit already. Will crimp a #2 end on #4 wire quite nicely as well.

Did you hook up the check engine light?

I'd say your chances are pretty good. The coolant dousing your spark would have happened pretty soon after the hose came off. Even though, once all the coolant is gone, the temp sender won't show how hot the engine really is because it will only be sensing the air in the empty coolant passage.

I don't think the words SVX and winter beater belong in the same sentence I would say the trans in the 97 HAS to have been rebuilt or swapped with that kind on mileage. If it shifts good and solid, putting that in the 96 seems like the easiest plan. But I would definitely confirm the final drive ratio. The 4.44s seem to work very well in the SVX. A manual swap would be cool, but more work. Maybe not as much as you think. I understand certain pedal clusters will bolt-in. Manual swap cars do go for a little more, but not really proportional to the time and money required. Too bad you don't have a manual trans parts car too...

The coolant drowned your coil pack and shorted the spark to ground. Spray it down with some WD-40 and then wipe off the excess. Pull the plug wires out and get inside too.

Sounds like you have another issue. EA71s have more than enough radiator capacity and normally never have overheating problems. If your timing is too retarded it will cause overheating. Too much advance only makes problems when it starts detonating. The fans only come in to play when you are stopped or moving very slowly. Try gunning it with the radiator cap off and see what happens

That's gorgeous. Wonder how many got sucked through the main jet? Was that one made in Italy, or, elsewhere...?

You probably already know this, but just in case you weren't aware of all the details: The EA82Ts are head snappers. They crack between the valves and in the exhaust ports. I worked in the dealers when these cars were new, and we would fill pickup trucks up with cracked heads, and use the scrap money for "Chili Fridays." Subaru went through two revisions of the castings till they finally got it "fixed" in 89, but I heard even some of the latest ones cracked. They are identified by the "EA82" cast in the bottom of the head. The first revision had a line cast under the EA82, and the second revision had a box cast around it. I wouldn't keep of try to use anything but the box heads. Not a question of if, but WHEN they WILL crack.

Is that the one off eBay?