philoftheblanks

That's why I prefer the older ones... I'm gonna replace my inner bushing soon, my driver's side rear wheel has a noticeable lean to it and when I checked underneath the trailing arm seems to make an odd angle with the subframe where it joins up near the center. I was told by the alignment shop (actually Les Schwab, I don't recommend) that there was no adjustment they could make, and this was likely due to the lift kit. At first I believed that theory until I thought about the physics of it, and now wonder if doing alignments is the job they give the new techs in training. That said, is there anyone with experience changing out those inner bushings? If no, I will gladly write up my experience with it, since this seems to be a fairly common problem.

Board Member: philoftheblanks Body: 1987 GL-10 wagon (turbo) Engine: 1992 JDM EJ22 Transmission: Dual range 3.9 from non-turbo Rear Diff: Converted 3.7 to 3.9 LSD Suspension: 2" lift from Subaru Bill Wheels: 14" Peugeot Tires: 25.5" Hankook iPike winter tires Sound: Pioneer USB 4X50 Watt, with 200 Watt amp driving a 12" Pioneer sub (amp mounted in rear corner pocket) Cooling system is fed through original EA radiator, using original fan flipped upside-down and switched to driver's side to avoid V-belts. Engine and transaxle subframes dropped 1" to remove stress from suspension and CV axles, also helps remove positive camber. Used stock EA82T fuel pump. Added relay to starter solenoid circuit after problems developed with consistent starter actuation. Next: fix falling headliner!

They have no visible cracks, less than 120k miles (replaced original motor with low-mile Japanese import some years back), and as far as Gen 1, 2, or 3...I've never heard of that with the EA82's. Is there a serial # that would indicate which generation of motor these are from?

I've got a set of EA82 turbo heads off of my 1987 GL-10 wagon. Motor lost a rod bearing in the bottom end, but there was no sign of failure from the top end. Includes intake, fuel rails, etc.... Finally did the EJ22 swap after doing one on my Vanagon, so I don't need these goodies anymore! Make me an offer, I was thinking in the neighborhood of $100. I am in the Portland area if you want to pick them up, since the cost of shipping would be atrocious.

Feanor, I had exactly the same problem with my '87. Windows down pulled exhaust in through under the back gate, where of course I also had a leaky tailpipe. I was rear-ended years ago by a guy chasing a bee inside his car, and I don't think the rear end seals up as good as it used to. I would check to see if you have any rust eating through the top of the tailpipe, I got my muffler replaced and now I only occasionally get a whiff of exhaust. Watch this one carefully, I finally had the muffler done when I started to feel light-headed and groggy after a 20 minute trip, don't let yourself get kilt.

Thanks for your response. Shopping for this car is becoming very complicated. Motor parts are 1992 legacy, axles are 1991 loyale, and the rest is all 1987 GL-10! Also, there is a 2-inch lift, so the shorter axle is even less possible. I will take your recommendations next time at the part store. Phil

Boxer Rebellion, I have been having a similar issue. My car is a 1987 GL-10, originally equipped with turbo engine and push-button single range 4wd. Years ago I swapped in a dual-range 4wd tranny, and have bought several axles since with no problems until the past few years...The first try I got one with the correct fit on the stub shaft, but too short by at least an inch. The second one I tried was the right length, but the spline cup was slightly too large. One would think that with so many of these models still on the road that parts would be easy to find, but no! So, if you could provide any and all info for the part you finally ordered, that would be great. Who did you order from? BTW, I also got the wrong pressure plate from an online vendor recently, specified for a GL-10, but it looks much more like a Justy-sized part. Once again, not sure why there are suddenly so many problems when it used to be easy! Thanks, Phil PS- Where are you in Portland?

I also would like to confirm the viability of the resistor trick. I considered looking out for an analog display, but now I've got my spec-tach-u-lar green bars back! Thank you for paving the way...

I might try this too, at this point almost none of the embedded nuts are still holding true and the small channel locks have to be used on the backside every time I take them off. What a PITA!

My PS system 'works', but squealing is persistent at cold temps. I've replaced the pump, tightened belts, etc. but I'm pretty sure that something in the rack must be worn out. I've just decided the noise isn't worth it, so I'm operating in manual mode now.

I picked up some 14" pugs last year, not as pretty as your 15 inchers, but they came with the standard "centering" lugnuts with a tapered, oval washer attached. These are very well-made pieces, I just hope I don't lose any, as they appear to be very difficult to replace.

This is why I keep my GL-10 on jackstands! I would be bummed too, since its only real value is sentimental...never get that back.

The most obvious symptom I've experienced with blown HG's is higher positive pressure in the cooling system, bubbling noises when you first shut off the engine, and intermittent performance of the heater while driving. Also, if you have creamy, Kahlua-looking stuff on the bottom of your oil-filler cap.

My '87 turbo only gets about 20-21 mpg on stock size wheels. I'm a bit worried that this will get much worse when I put my larger Peugeot wheels with off-road tires on there. Probably should do an EJ22 swap, I put one in my Vanagon and it gets better mileage, despite being huge, heavy, and anything BUT aerodynamic!

Installed a 2" lift and bought 5 14" Peugeot rims for installation of ~25.5" tires on my 1987 GL-10. Should give an overall "improvement" of 3.5 to 4.0 inches. Also, completely tearing down and rebuilding an EA82 turbo motor after losing a rod bearing. Replaced original push-button transaxle with dual range 4WD from an SPFI model.