ShawnW

Nice to hear from you!

I have run hydraulic pushrods on a solid lifter motor but you can't do it the other way around. We used to do it as the caps wouldn't pop off like solid lifter pushrods at high rpm.

Ill see you there! I have made the trip for #3, 7, 10, and 19 if memory serves and never had a bad time. At #10 I had been puking for 2 days from bad Clam chowder for the first day of the show and still had a blast. I fully agree with you that: For your first show don't try to bring a car home but if you are going to try it you have the right idea doing a round trip flight in case the deal isn't good. Twice now I have done some sort of car deal on the trip. The first one I did was a logistical mess and I had some of the best members on this forum to help me. Then last year I did a trade and showed up in an SVX that I had owned for 6 hours and changed the radiator at the show. That car made it home no problems but it was a huge gamble. Times I have kept the trip simple with a solid EJ powered car that I already owned before and drove home after have been much more vacation like.

If its the filter I use in house I have a Pennzoil tool that fits really well. For filters that aren't that size I reach up with a pair of these. https://goo.gl/images/KvCMN8

I have a Smart washer. Its not cheap but it WORKS. And it won't kill you, isn't flammable, and usually doesn't hurt the parts. Works great on aluminum engines, decent against carbon (honestly nothing takes carbon off pistons easily imo) Used with my hot washer I hardly have to scrub things anymore. Heres one in CL Colorado so you get an idea but I paid $200 for the last one and had to buy a pad and fluid to get going I am at about 300 invested and the fluid has to be topped off when the red light comes on occasionally but otherwise its fine. https://cosprings.craigslist.org/tls/d/smart-washer-sw-23-parts/6378177699.html https://www.grainger.com/product/52GZ77?cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!166588258783!!!s!82495857477!&ef_id=Vd5RUgAABcyvta3D:20171220224224:s&kwid=productads-adid^166588258783-device^c-plaid^82495857477-sku^52GZ77-adType^PLA Be patient they do come up cheap sometimes! And they're not hard to fix or troubleshoot.

I have one that has a little weak spot in it if you don't twist the key quite so far it starts really fast. Otherwise I don't know if I am completely understanding what your saying.

For the air suspension?

http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/5864787100.html Selling this. I will ship but you pay shipping with FedEx Ground. Paypal or call with a credit card to the shop if interested. 720-440-1662 Thanks! I have a few ea81 manifolds if someone wants to remove it from the 71 and put it on an 81 manifold.

I fixed one with this code with the replacement of the MAF as well today. Thanks for the thread.

I don't know. That'd be about like not loving your wife anymore because she changed her name from Sarah to Tracy. Its still the same girl just a different name isn't it?

When I did Vanagon Conversions at RetroRoo we liked using this to ghost out the CEL's. Part of the wires you are mentioning are covered by using this. https://smallcar.com/vanagon/subaru-vanagon-conversion-parts/interface-board.html You won't be able to cheat the fuel temp or fuel level stuff very easily during a conversion. The tach signal is correct. I feed it right into the back of the instrument clusters tach wire. On the Early 80's its yellow but I am not sure on the later 80's/Loyale stuff.

I got about 10 right and I live thousands of miles away.

Agree with you on the newer Subarus but on the old ones the coolant shuts off to the heater with a control valve.

Ive got a bin full but I never had any problem using some on others.